DARKSOFT CPS1 Multi - Support thread

[Ysi]

I bet your switches are flaky. Several of the DIP switches on my A board were corroded or worn out. They did not make good electrical contact. I replace all three switch blocks and now the DIP switch settings are working a whole lot better.

you are right, my Dips toggle when they want, i have follow members idea : check with multimeter and boot SFII Rom test.
I had flood all with electronic cleaner spray and order some new "piano type".
Time to service my A board...

thank you for any response.

 

[ShootTheCore]

In any case, more clear instructions on how to put together the packs would be very helpful. I am always down to learn more about my favorite arcade system, anyway.

The procedure for preparing the SD card and extracting the pre-made pack to it are covered in my tutorial video.

View: https://youtu.be/NTWg7clOqKs

 

[Sl1pm0de]

Set up my CPS1 multi today. My A board is an 89626A-4 with the 12Mhz crystal. My C board is a 92641C-1 that had a battery. These boards were on a working Strider that someone had burned the EPROMs for. I removed the battery from the C board. When I put the CPS1 together everything seems to work except the graphics. I could see the game playing but the screen was mostly dark with no background and I could see the silhouette of the sprites. Hard to explain how it looks but I know that these graphics problems are typically because of an issue with the C board. I read that some modified C boards could cause a problem. How would I know if this C board was modified?

 

[Roch]

How would I know if this C board was modified?

Your C-board has been modified then "un-modified" by following this method:

Undoing the modification:
To reverse the mod you simply need to disconnect these pins from +5V and then re-connect them to Ground.

1. Start by removing the bodge wire
2. If the pins are lifted then solder them back down in place.
3. Use a Multi-Meter to check and make sure there is no lingering continuity between the pins and +5V
4. Connect Pins 45 and 46 to ground. If the pins were lifted then you might already be done. On some boards this might be just adding a solder jumper to the nearest ground pin, on other boards you might need to add a new bodge wire to tie the pins to ground to "fix" any cut traces.
5. Do a final check to make sure there is no continuity between +5V and Ground

It can be seen on PIN 45 and 46 of the B-21 (soldering point to connect PIN 47).

 

[Sl1pm0de]

Your C-board has been modified then "un-modified" by following this method:



It can be seen on PIN 45 and 46 of the B-21 (soldering point to connect PIN 47).

Thanks. Does someone have a picture of this? I’m not really sure what you are supposed to be doing here. I can solder but I don’t have a lot of knowledge about these boards. So I removed the solder connecting 45, 46 and 47. I need to connect pins 45 to 46 to ground? I see it looks like someone tried to cut the traces. Is 45 and 46 currently connected to ground but the traces were cut and now I need to run a jumper to ground like the negative battery terminal hole?

 

[Roch]

Thanks. Does someone have a picture of this? I’m not really sure what you are supposed to be doing here. I can solder but I don’t have a lot of knowledge about these boards. So I removed the solder connecting 45, 46 and 47. I need to connect pins 45 to 46 to ground? I see it looks like someone tried to cut the traces. Is 45 and 46 currently connected to ground but the traces were cut and now I need to run a jumper to ground like the negative battery terminal hole?

In theory, your C-Board was "un-modified" as needed to run the multi. PIN 47 goes precisely to ground. That's why the three (45, 46 and 47) were soldered together: to lead 45 and 46 to ground. So, either it wasn't done correctly, or the C-Board has another problem (dead graphics chip for example). But, can you test with another C-Board to verify that it really comes from that ?

 

[Sl1pm0de]

Unmodified? So your original response meant that my C board should have worked? I know this board was working just fine on the board I took it from. I see what looks like a cut trace on some of the pins so there is some modification done here. I’m still not following what needs to be done here.

 

[ekorz]

Solder pins 45,46,47 together like you had it. It was fine like it was. Pin 47 is a ground pin, so by soldering 45 and 46 to it, you ground those pins too, which is the goal. The cut traces don’t matter at that point.

@Roch is just telling you someone had previously modded the c board, but that it was configured correctly for this application (with 45 46 and 47 all soldered like they were)

 

[Roch]

Unmodified? So your original response meant that my C board should have worked?

Yes, that's what I meant.

Thanks @ekorz it's exactly that.

 

[Ysi]

Unmodified? So your original response meant that my C board should have worked? I know this board was working just fine on the board I took it from. I see what looks like a cut trace on some of the pins so there is some modification done here. I’m still not following what needs to be done here.

My eyes are not enough good to see your pic in detail , But basic check are :
- With your C-board, the Switch on the multi PCB might be ON.
- On page 23 of the pdf V1.3 manual a drawing show most pin, check all of them with multimeter.

 

[Sl1pm0de]

Thanks for that. Sorry for the confusion. Not sure what I did but it is working now. I did reflow the solder to those pins. I do notice the occasional static show up on the screen. Not sure what is causing that. If I plug another board into the cabinet I do not see this.

Yes, that's what I meant.

Thanks @ekorz it's exactly that.

Thanks for that. Sorry for the confusion. Not sure what I did but it is working now. I did reflow the solder to those pins and check for connectivity with my multi-meter.

I do notice the occasional static show up on the screen. Not sure what is causing that. Does anyone know? If I plug another board into the cabinet I do not see this.

 

[Sl1pm0de]

Disregard. I am seeing a little bit of static in the cabinet on another PCB. Ok last problem. I noticed that a number of games won’t load. Test screen loads and shows successful but never continues on to the game.

 

[Roch]

Thanks for that. Sorry for the confusion. Not sure what I did but it is working now. I did reflow the solder to those pins and check for connectivity with my multi-meter.

Great .

I noticed that a number of games won’t load. Test screen loads and shows successful but never continues on to the game.

Can you give the list of games that don't work (to check if there is a logic)?

 

[ekorz]

@Sl1pm0de Make sure you don’t have the wrong dip settings. One of them is a pause function. DipC switch 4 for magic sword for example

 

[Mitsurugi-w]

Check your dipswitch settings. The games are in stop mode if the stop booting.

 

[jassin000]

Unless you've got a remote DIPs board you should prob keep them all off for now (and esp for testing).
You can easily identify "stuck" DIPs using the Test/Service menu of SF2:CE...

Text translation of the above image for reference...

	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
DIP-A	off	off	off	off	off	off	off	off
DIP-B	on	on	off	off	off	off	off	off
DIP-C	off	off	off	off	off	on	on	off

 

[Sl1pm0de]

Unless you've got a remote DIPs board you should prob keep them all off for now (and esp for testing).
You can easily identify "stuck" DIPs using the Test/Service menu of SF2:CE...

Text translation of the above image for reference...

	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
DIP-A	off	off	off	off	off	off	off	off
DIP-B	on	on	off	off	off	off	off	off
DIP-C	off	off	off	off	off	on	on	off

It was the DIP settings. Everything runs great! Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[TMF68k]

I had a chance to install it on a long board and tried it out.
I wired the reset and Q sound inside.


The CPS1 game started properly and sound came from JAMMA. Of course, there was no sound on the 1.5 audio mix side.
This is because the connectors are not reachable.


Therefore, we extended the connector.


This also allows the CPS1.5 sound to be output properly.

 

[dos]

Huh, so the only thing stopping it from working on a long board is the connector not reaching? Guess I don't need to buy another A-board for my SFII cab's multi as I already have a good working long board, just need to build an adapter with an edge connector and fingerboard.

 

[Roch]

Therefore, we extended the connector.

Very interesting, I didn't know that was possible. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Darksoft]

Our experience is that only some of these long boards work. Let's see the feedback of people...