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The newer rev USB-C can support some pretty impressive power output upper end at 240W and they can do power negotiation to deliver whatever voltage the device wants. What they're using here, I don't know, but the right USB-C equipment can probably work

I completely agree, but the exception are parts with lots of complex and intersecting-curves... which this has. I've designed a dozen or so custom parts to integrate ODEs within the weird shaped disc tray geometry of consoles. I don't even now where would start or how I would approach one of...

to be honest, to do this right would require 3D scanning of the entire thing.

On a more material note, one big reason I wanted to seek this out is that nearly every JAMMA pinout I've found get the audio section wrong or incomplete. Note that pins L and 10 are "speaker negative" and speaker positive"... and speaker negative IS NOT GROUND. proper "balanced" speaker output...

So there's lot of "mostly correct" info about the JAMMA pinout online and pretty much 0 info about the other aspects. More than a decade ago there were actually some official resources online but they've all since disappeared. Now random homemade JAMMA pinout images are great for most things...

I just checked my MP board and it is indeed missing the connector and has no letters in the serial number.

I mean probably just the sicker would be the only differentiator at that point. I'm perfectly happy with this. TVC is overpriced and these Metal Game units are practically worthless otherwise.

Please keep me updated if you hear back from him.

ah maybe it wasn't a popcorn machine but the translation is: "Mario Party Mysterious CoroCoro Catcher" Would also love to know if I can re-flash it with TVC after I dump the NAND.

I've got one of the Mario Popcorn boards. Is there any info on how to use this to dump my board?

oh man I can't stand trimmed JAMMA edges, I always kick myself when I buy a board and discover I missed that from the sale images.

yeah that's kind of the conclusion I came to, but getting the color right and even across such a large sheet seems like it would be a nightmare.

I'm not sure what is used on the original (if you have any idea how I can determine that I'd love to hear it). but I've heard that for translucent material vacuum forming PET is best.

Any JAMMA harness or cab with a harness I own gets a key before it ever gets used, period. It honestly doesn't much effort, literally just take some edge cutters and trim down a piece of a failed 3D print (or even some junk plastic housing from something) and shove it in the pin slot ... job...

if you ever run across 3-4mm thick translucent blue sheets let me know! That's what I need to do the control panels on Flash Beats https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-flash-beats-restoration.7141/

Glad to hear you're still hanging in there! I've heard everten has had good success setting up his store with shopify. When I was running bit-district I self hosted with CubeCart. If you need help or advice with that process let me know! having a storefront for this stuff makes keeping track...

I actually need to thank you for helping me discover it. Because I WAS getting thread notifications and you had posted in the AW multi thread, which I got a notification for, and decided to pop on to the site. Only to discover that I had a PM from a few days prior that I never got a notification...

can't say I've ever run into that, though assuming solid and clean 5V next thing I would check is cooling fan and thermals, maybe caps

Check your settings I discovered that email notifications for PMs was disabled on my account!

AH and someone's already Jail Broke it: View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYhYkpYpt58