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Easy Arcade 2?

jord4n313

jord4n313

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Has anyone had any experience with the easy arcade 2?

https://shuichitakano.github.io/easy_arcade/easy_arcade.html

I currently use a HAS but this thing looks really slick with the 3D printed case using USB-C power, Nintendo style multi-out, and usb encoders for controllers with easily remapped buttons.

Anyone have any experience on how it compares to the HAS as far as video quality? How is the latency? Power quality from internal USB-C psu?
 
I am phenomenally skeptical of usb being used to power an arcade pcb. You mention “internal” usb-c but it is absolutely and external dc wall wart that is being used with these.

but I would feel that it would be inadequate for most arcade pcbs. The max those dc PSUs go is 65w I think, and the most bare-bones arcade psu I know of is 110w. So if you’re going to power a neo geo or a pgm, ok, but anything larger and I think you’ll start to run into issues. This is based on zero experience with it though.

Also the doc lists that the Sega Saturn wireless pro doesn’t work with this device currently, so I find it funny that it’s in that photo
 
ekorz said:
I am phenomenally skeptical of usb being used to power an arcade pcb. You mention “internal” usb-c but it is absolutely and external dc wall wart that is being used with these.

but I would feel that it would be inadequate for most arcade pcbs. The max those dc PSUs go is 65w I think, and the most bare-bones arcade psu I know of is 110w. So if you’re going to power a neo geo or a pgm, ok, but anything larger and I think you’ll start to run into issues. This is based on zero experience with it though.

Also the doc lists that the Sega Saturn wireless pro doesn’t work with this device currently, so I find it funny that it’s in that photo
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To be fair that picture was taken from a thread of a dude testing diff controllers and it said that the Saturn pro didn’t work. I just liked that picture best.

Also there are USB-C power adapters that can do up to 165W or maybe more. My laptop requires at least a 90W USB-C and Dell has an XPS laptop that uses 120W USB-C. I’m not saying that it would work as I am no an expert on these things but just wanted to note that 65W is far from the max on USB-C.

Edit: I just realized that you meant the easy arcades built in DC-DC psu was the cause of the 65W limit so it doesn’t matter that USB-C can deliver more power. My mistake.
 
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I don’t think it’s internal but I’m just reading this

“Use a USB-PD power supply that can output 20V. USB-PD power supplies up to 65W can be used.“

Yeah I have no idea what it’s doing power wise but it sounds like it’s taking 20v DC from a wall wart and generating 5v 12v and -5v from there. I just have no confidence that the 5v is going to be stable, especially for large boards. Happy to be proven wrong but that’s not something I’ve seen before. Usually they just say they can do the job, but it only works for tiny pcbs. Plug in a cps2 and measure the 5v line, I bet it’ll be below tolerance.
 
ekorz said:
I don’t think it’s internal but I’m just reading this

“Use a USB-PD power supply that can output 20V. USB-PD power supplies up to 65W can be used.“

Yeah I have no idea what it’s doing power wise but it sounds like it’s taking 20v DC from a wall wart and generating 5v 12v and -5v from there. I just have no confidence that the 5v is going to be stable, especially for large boards. Happy to be proven wrong but that’s not something I’ve seen before. Usually they just say they can do the job, but it only works for tiny pcbs. Plug in a cps2 and measure the 5v line, I bet it’ll be below tolerance.
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Yes unfortunately it seems it’s probably too good to be true for a general replacement supergun. I guess I’ll be hanging on to my big brick of a psu for my HAS
 
jord4n313 said:
IMG_3466.jpeg
Has anyone had any experience with the easy arcade 2?

https://shuichitakano.github.io/easy_arcade/easy_arcade.html

I currently use a HAS but this thing looks really slick with the 3D printed case using USB-C power, Nintendo style multi-out, and usb encoders for controllers with easily remapped buttons.

Anyone have any experience on how it compares to the HAS as far as video quality? How is the latency? Power quality from internal USB-C psu?
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I’ve had no issues with this. That picture is mine. I’ve been extensively testing this with many boards. I’ve also worked closely with Shuichi on QA. So far nothing had been damaged nor any weird effects. As long as you use a good pd power supply or battery, it should be fine. I’ve tested this overnight and no external damages overheating or weird sparks. I’ve used boards that require more power, -5v, and dual jamma without any issues. I even powered the lcds and both easy arcade 2s on the same battery with no weird side effects. Battery will drain and shut down the game, but the boards will still work on a different power supply. Also tested this with a couple wall adapters and ran 24 hours no problem.

The easy arcade 2 is built very well and from talking with the creator, it seems like he knows his stuff. Albeit, the technical side of things is above my skillset, but I see no issues so far.

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The newer rev USB-C can support some pretty impressive power output upper end at 240W and they can do power negotiation to deliver whatever voltage the device wants.

What they're using here, I don't know, but the right USB-C equipment can probably work
 
twistedsymphony said:
The newer rev USB-C can support some pretty impressive power output upper end at 240W and they can do power negotiation to deliver whatever voltage the device wants.

What they're using here, I don't know, but the right USB-C equipment can probably work
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Does that “right usb-c” psu auto-regulate the 5v well?

Usually that’s where it becomes shit because the tolerance on a 30 year old pcb is different than something asking for 5v via usb nowadays, and any usb psu just decides eg 4.6v should be fine.

Not to mention this device asks for a 65w not a 240w. And is converting from 20v I think.

I’d love to eat my words but I haven’t seen anyone take a multimeter to a usb-powered arcade system and come away with good results. Maybe that’s changed recently.

I have no doubt it will boot or run something, even for 24 hours like @tacobell says, but I’m not in the habit of using that as a basis for judgement when it comes to power. 5v should be 5.00v for longevity’s sake.

I just want to know if it’s delivering consistent 5.00v. Should be easy to measure.
 
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bagheera369 said:
@tacobell - JFC THAT CAVE STACK!!!!! :D

The device seems amazing....has there been any notice of sell dates, or pricing?
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The only way to get these is through KVC.lab in Tokyo or their online store. They post on twitter when their stock goes live, but sell out of stock in 2 min.

https://x.com/kvclab/status/1882970461853872231

ekorz said:
I just want to know if it’s delivering consistent 5.00v. Should be easy to measure.
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From my previous testings, the 5v is pretty stable, but DM me if you want to discuss specifics. I’d like to clear any doubts.

Regardless, this thing makes it super portable to play pcbs without the use of a meanwell
Power brick. With the way it’s selling out in Japan, I don’t think many people have issues with it either.
 
tacobell said:
The only way to get these is through KVC.lab in Tokyo or their online store. They post on twitter when their stock goes live, but sell out of stock in 2 min.

https://x.com/kvclab/status/1882970461853872231



From my previous testings, the 5v is pretty stable, but DM me if you want to discuss specifics. I’d like to clear any doubts.

Regardless, this thing makes it super portable to play pcbs without the use of a meanwell
Power brick. With the way it’s selling out in Japan, I don’t think many people have issues with it either.
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I don't think we need to DM really.

Just grab a multi-meter and hook it up to the jamma edge on one of those cave pcbs, then turn it on. Is it stable 5.0x volts, and how immediate is it at that level?
Then swap in a larger pcb, like cps2 or irem m72/m92, hook up the probes, then turn that on too. If it's doing its job, it'll be 5.0v when you turn it on for both boards, and stay there. If it's not, it'll be something else, and take some amount of time to get to 5.0, or never actually get there.

That would cover 95% of jamma boards, I'd think. I'm not going to ask you to try it on a primal rage board or anything :D
 
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ekorz said:
I assume it does the same with something with less load like a cv1k?
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Yes, it’s pretty stable regardless of the type of board.
5v would be from 4.99 - 5.01 and 12v would be from 11.99 -12.01 at load. However, they stabilize after a few seconds.

From cv1k, Mortal Kombat 2 and the dual jamma boards like run n gun and title bout, they all act similar to what your seeing with the cps2 video.
 
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