- Thread starter Frank_fjs
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pacoarcade
Professional
Could you recommend a seller for the Saturn female connectors? the ones I bought did not fit well and I bent the pins 
I bought mine off eBay long ago. I'll look for that in auction history and will let you know.Could you recommend a seller for the Saturn female connectors? the ones I bought did not fit well and I bent the pins
Raph_friend
Grand Master
Sorry for the old quote, but the UD decode uses that method too.Be careful with that code, I wouldn't use it in that form, since it doesn't configure the outputs as open drain, this means that when buttons aren't pressed, it outputs high - you don't want to accidentally touch the GND with those pins
Also, this may be just me, but if possible, I prefer to set the microcontroller's outputs all at once, not each time for every output.
I know this because I'm making an adapter for PSX to Jamma and the simplest method outputs HIGH (5V), and I had to research something safer.
So I measured several adapters I own, including UD.
At first I thought I was crazy, because in my mind this method would blow the I/Os (just how NEO-C1 blow on some MVS), but apparently, no, haha.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
This was the seller I bought my cables from. But they don't seem to stock them anymore.I bought mine off eBay long ago. I'll look for that in auction history and will let you know.Could you recommend a seller for the Saturn female connectors? the ones I bought did not fit well and I bent the pins
@Frank_fjs, do you use shield ground on either the Sat2Neo or the Minigun? If so, I am going to have to get screws to hold this together to connect ground.
Just waiting on the screws to hold down the lid PCB and dip sockets and this will be done. Honestly, the lid probably isn't going to be needed. This fits so well. If anything, it adds to the aesthetic. Here it is with the Minigun v1.1:
Just waiting on the screws to hold down the lid PCB and dip sockets and this will be done. Honestly, the lid probably isn't going to be needed. This fits so well. If anything, it adds to the aesthetic. Here it is with the Minigun v1.1:
On the Minigun the db15 shields are grounded as well as one of the db15 pins. The ground on the shield isn't necessary at all for connectivity / functional purposes, it's just there for a bit of shielding and general flow of the ground plane on the pcb.
Saturn adapters require the shield of the db15s to be removed so there's no point of grounding those.
Saturn adapters require the shield of the db15s to be removed so there's no point of grounding those.
kingofapoc
New User
Hi, I'm new here. Just wanted to drop a question. Are these converters (Saturn -> Neo Geo) for sale already assembled? Or is this strictly DIY or is still a work in progress? Thanks!
Hey @Frank_fjs, if you have a spare, chuck it aside for us will ‘ya?
Consider it done
gamemaster14
Enthusiast
I use an adapter to use my Neo Geo CD Controller on my arcade boards. (Basically an extension cable with spliced wires connected to alligator clips)
Just wondering, could an adapter such as this possibly be used to connected Sega Saturn Twin Sticks to be used on a Sega Model 2 with Virtual on or a Sega Model 3 with Virtual On OOT?
I know the Saturn Twin Sticks are 100% digital and do not use analog like some sticks, I would figure an adapter like this would eliminate the need to modify the twin sticks making them still able to connect to a Saturn Console or a Dreamcast console with TC3 adapter.
Just wondering, could an adapter such as this possibly be used to connected Sega Saturn Twin Sticks to be used on a Sega Model 2 with Virtual on or a Sega Model 3 with Virtual On OOT?
I know the Saturn Twin Sticks are 100% digital and do not use analog like some sticks, I would figure an adapter like this would eliminate the need to modify the twin sticks making them still able to connect to a Saturn Console or a Dreamcast console with TC3 adapter.
Hello. I just received a 1.6 Saturn to Neo converter. My old school Saturn pads work perfectly, but I picked up a couple of Retro Bit Saturn pads and they don't work properly. Here is a link to the exact pads:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&tag=nearmintcon-20&th=1
Medium punch seems to be hit rapidly, and coin / start don't seem to work until I hold the actual Start button... it's very odd. Why would these pads not work like the classic controllers? Is it possible to upgrade firmware on these devices? In the meantime, I'll continue to use my classic pads. Thanks for any help.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&tag=nearmintcon-20&th=1
Medium punch seems to be hit rapidly, and coin / start don't seem to work until I hold the actual Start button... it's very odd. Why would these pads not work like the classic controllers? Is it possible to upgrade firmware on these devices? In the meantime, I'll continue to use my classic pads. Thanks for any help.
dr_myslihiiri
Student
Please consider grabbing a wireless 2.4GHz Retro-Bit controller once they're available. I'd be willing to chip in a little towards getting you one for testing, although I'd wager to guess that the multiplexing logic will be identical between the wired and wireless models.
pacoarcade
Professional
How good are these controllers compared to the real deal?
Hypothesis #1:
I wonder if it's a timing issue with how fast the adapter is changing states.
I programmed my code to simply switch read banks as fast as possible to reduce any potential lag, but the real Saturn consoles might switch at a specific rate that the Retro-Bit controllers as designed to run at.
I would suggest 2 things.
1. open up that Reto Bit controller and get a picture of the IC clear enough to read the model number. so we know what we're dealing with.
2. someone with a o-scope and a Saturn see if you can determine the rate at which it switches read banks
from there we can determine if the adapters are switching banks too fast or too slow and work out a solution.
Hypothesis #2:
perhaps the Retro-Bit controllers are actually using the Analog controller protocol, it's possible they designed communication around that so that they could use the same logic with the digital controllers and some future analog offering. knowing what they're using for an IC in those controllers might provide a clue.
I was hoping my second post in this forum would contribute to the community, but it doesn't look like it will. :-/
@rsignal, They feel really close to the Japanese pads, I would recommend them... just not for this.
I've attached close up pics of the IC on these pads (the slate black was ~almost~ transparent enough, heh) but I don't see any markings at all. These are supposed to be officially licensed Sega pads, so I was theorizing they would be identical to the real things - I guess not. I hope this shots help though - thanks for looking.
@rsignal, They feel really close to the Japanese pads, I would recommend them... just not for this.
I've attached close up pics of the IC on these pads (the slate black was ~almost~ transparent enough, heh) but I don't see any markings at all. These are supposed to be officially licensed Sega pads, so I was theorizing they would be identical to the real things - I guess not. I hope this shots help though - thanks for looking.
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