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Namco NA1/NA2 Repair Tips

That's still a line fault.... i know you really want it to be a ram fail or something easy but it really is not.
A dead line or a tin whisker / crap is the fault...


TheDeath said:
gluing the customs
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what in the world made you think that was a good idea!?

gamefixer said:
Anyone have any idea where to find that pot? Or even know the values?
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I pinch them from scrap namco system 11 / 12.... Never found it's model number in the end.
 
hi,
does anyone know where to find the crystal oscillator used on NA2 MB ? it's a radial version with a 50.113 MHz value. Mine seems dead. Thanks !
 
After spending a shit load of time fixing my crap i did on these, finally The NA1 is working good but the NA2 is still goofy.
It's acting like some sort of brightness being crancked up like a solar system.
There's a self test involving "UARTS" and i didn't get what are these, they are also reported as BAD.
I changed the Color DAC but this doesn't change. Maybe those 256 rams nearby?
I've take a look at palettes and sprites, they all look fine to me

"
20200717-155127.jpg

20200717-155138.jpg

20200717-155202.jpg

20200717-155116.jpg
 
Nice haha!

I think you need to check the small transistors around the DAC:

Watch to the end:

 
gamefixer said:
Hammy said:
I pinch them from scrap namco system 11 / 12.... Never found it's model number in the end.
Click to expand...
I might have found a replacement on Mouser. It will be here tomorrow.
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Please let us know if it makes a good substitute. I have no sound on mine after recapping, and think it may have something to do with that dial. . .
 
-Ace- said:
gamefixer said:
Hammy said:
I pinch them from scrap namco system 11 / 12.... Never found it's model number in the end.
Click to expand...
I might have found a replacement on Mouser. It will be here tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Please let us know if it makes a good substitute. I have no sound on mine after recapping, and think it may have something to do with that dial. . .
Click to expand...
It didnt work. I suppose I should have taken the time to map out the pins on the one I bought vs the ones on the board though.
 
Hello there !

I recently bought a faulty Numan Athleticsd.
The game plays very well, ... just no sound at all.

Looking at the motherboard, I am thinking this is where the problem comes from.


Some close ups to the sound area with the shiny capacitors :


I can see the area is quite coroded, so I am asking you guys if I should capkit the board to try to save it or it looks too late for that ?

I also read a lot that MB3773 IC should be replaced, should I do that too with the capkit ?

Thanks
 
Looks like mine. I went and replaced all the caps, but still have no sound, so while it's worth trying to fix, don't expect it to work fully again with all new caps, etc. Mine has become a project that I hope to eventually get sound back.
 
you gotta strip and clean the full area and replace as much as possible. the op amps etc die from the corrosion too.
if it's got onto the 2 big chips best to clean now before the tracks rot.
 
Hammy said:
you gotta strip and clean the full area and replace as much as possible. the op amps etc die from the corrosion too.
if it's got onto the 2 big chips best to clean now before the tracks rot.
Click to expand...
Yes, I intend to do just that, just want to make sure it's not wasting money/time :)

For now I just cleaned it with white vinegar, then alcool, then rinced it with clear water, hoping it will stop the corrosion. Should I do something else to stop it ?

Also I did a few tests on the amp, to see if it still works (sacrificed a jack to sold on the amp and test it on an external speaker) , but it is not conclusive.

Also should I consider changing the MB3773 IC ?
 
Last edited:
TheDeath said:
The MB3773 is a reset chip, if the board boots there's no need to change it. All tho, you should change the 2.2uf cap just above it.
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Allright will do that, I already counted this one too for the capkit of the whole board.
Thanks :)


-Ace- said:
Looks like mine. I went and replaced all the caps, but still have no sound, so while it's worth trying to fix, don't expect it to work fully again with all new caps, etc. Mine has become a project that I hope to eventually get sound back.
Click to expand...
Did you also change the 2.2uf cap next to the MB3773 too ? Or just the metallic looking ones around the amp ?
 
spacejockey said:
TheDeath said:
The MB3773 is a reset chip, if the board boots there's no need to change it. All tho, you should change the 2.2uf cap just above it.
Click to expand...
Allright will do that, I already counted this one too for the capkit of the whole board.
Thanks :)


-Ace- said:
Looks like mine. I went and replaced all the caps, but still have no sound, so while it's worth trying to fix, don't expect it to work fully again with all new caps, etc. Mine has become a project that I hope to eventually get sound back.
Click to expand...
Did you also change the 2.2uf cap next to the MB3773 too ? Or just the metallic looking ones around the amp ?
Click to expand...
As said above, if you are booting up OK then the 3773 is ok and best to leave it alone.
If the cap is looking scrappy change it but it only does the reset function so easy to tell when it's dead.
 
namco na-2
on the sound issue
according to the pin out i can have sound only if i use the the 48 pin extended edge connector,am i right?
can i solder a wire the sound from the 48pin connector to the jamma connector ?
thanks
 

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roy said:
according to the pin out i can have sound only if i use the the 48 pin extended edge connector,am i right?
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no

mono sound is on the JAMMA edge pins 10 and L just like every other JAMMA board.
the extended connector is just for headphone or extra stereo output.
 
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