What's new

Ignignxkt's Vewlix Diamond Black Build!

Where does one get 100 yen coins nowadays?
Do you have templates for the art you made for the cab? I'm commissioning art from my favorite artist and just trying to make his life as easy as possible and templates would be a huge help.

Also I have a hadouken IO board but have no idea what to do with it lol. The core of my cab is a laptop and I'm stumped on how to hook up the IO board or what to do with it.

Finding the Yen was harder than expected. But I found some on ebay from two sellers, what I have is a combination of both of those lots.

I used this guy's templates:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...ix-marquee-and-move-strip-original-art.25196/

Please be warned, while the move list art was perfectly sized, it seemed he had roughly 1/4" bleed on the marquee art. I'm not sure why he had a bleed on one and not the other, none the less no markings that indicated there even was excess artwork, but I did have to trim the marquee art all around the border for it to fit. Hope that helps.
 
As far as the custom io. This is how you hook it up. If you want home touchpad or other buttons you need his other harness which plugs into the top left port. He gave literally no instructions so don’t feel bad. Took some time for me to trial and error my way through it, too. I emailed him for some help, but his response didn't help me at all...

Basically, plug into the center port on the brook board and into the nearby port on the custom IO. Control board harness goes obviously on the left. I only have one player controls, but if you have two, you need another brook adapter and to do that all over again below. And then of course plug in the P1 harness on the bottom right. (if you have another player, plug in your other harness on the bottom left where it says P2)

IMG_6060.jpeg
 
As far as the custom io. This is how you hook it up. If you want home touchpad or other buttons you need his other harness which plugs into the top left port. He gave literally no instructions so don’t feel bad. Took some time for me to trial and error my way through it, too. I emailed him for some help, but his response didn't help me at all...

Basically, plug into the center port on the brook board and into the nearby port on the custom IO. Control board harness goes obviously on the left. I only have one player controls, but if you have two, you need another brook adapter and to do that all over again below. And then of course plug in the P1 harness on the bottom right. (if you have another player, plug in your other harness on the bottom left where it says P2)

IMG_6060.jpeg
Actually both p1 and p2 harnesses plug into the same IO connector and connect to the P1 port and connect to the IO board through the G connector and P1 port. The P2 port is for the nesica card reader. That's why the pin count on the p1 is 4 and the pin count on the p2 is five. I talked to the owner of Hadouken earlier and he helped me get it all set up.
 
Actually both p1 and p2 harnesses plug into the same IO connector and connect to the P1 port and connect to the IO board through the G connector and P1 port. The P2 port is for the nesica card reader. That's why the pin count on the p1 is 4 and the pin count on the p2 is five. I talked to the owner of Hadouken earlier and he helped me get it all set up.

Glad he helped, I tried talking to him and I couldnt understand what he was trying to say. I do wonder if it's be able to hook up my bana passport to that if I could figure out the pinout harness. Not sure if it's supposed to light up or what...
 
Glad he helped, I tried talking to him and I couldnt understand what he was trying to say. I do wonder if it's be able to hook up my bana passport to that if I could figure out the pinout harness. Not sure if it's supposed to light up or what...
Idk, my Nesica pin out is marked as P2 Confirmed with Chris that it does connect to the p2 port on the io board. The card readers are pretty worthless without an arcade board. I'm tempted to gut mine and just put wireless charging coils in it.
 
IMG_6225.jpeg
IMG_6224.jpeg
IMG_6221.jpeg
IMG_6220.jpeg
IMG_6226.jpeg
Rewired the cab for not only the Phantom Canyon but also the Xbox 360 E, and readied cables for the upcoming Namco 246 and Taito Type X3. Switcher mounted hidden on the top of the lower cab. Made a shelf and mounted the pc to that.

Gambling it should give me enough clearance for one arcade pc (Namco or Taito) beneath it. Xbox on a quarter inch tall metal rack so it clears the arcade wire loom that runs below it. So it lays flat and doesn’t rock on the loom anymore. Remote for switching video inputs and usb under the control panel, hidden away. All four pieces of hardware will be hooked up to it.

Hardwired led lights on top and bottom via usb to the power outlet on the left. Activates via motion. Mounted with built in magnets.

Wired input remote for the KVM mounted to underside of the control panel. If I want to switch video and usb connections I just hit a button for the corresponding hardware. And you can’t see it and it’s all tucked away nice.

I spent longer than I care to admit on this. But it’s super organized now and everything is tucked out of the way and ready for expansion. My back hurts but it’s been worth it!
 
IMG_6289.jpegIMG_6290.jpeg


Previous switcher was junk :(. Switcher after that was also junk lol. (Can’t make this up)

Found one with proper hdcp support and…it worked! ……..on the Xbox 360 lol. Pc is a big goose egg. I officially give up.

I’m going to get hdmi extensions for each system and just manually plug in the system I want to play to the monitor cable in the main compartment and be done with this crap.

And of course I realized this after I did all my cable management …. Again. I figured it worked as it tested fine on the 360 initially. But then I realized I had audio issues as the expansion feature was trash. This made me nervous to try the pc and I couldn’t even get a picture lol. Going to just get the Xbox 3.5mm audio and run that directly to the amp and call it a day, with hdmi acting only as video (already confirmed it pushes out both signals at once).

Mounted rack so that the X3 will lay flat despite cables running underneath.

Splitter has a built in audio extractor!! Only one 3.5mm cable now from splitter to Vewlix amp! Sounds amazing!

Lights rewired etc. ignore the splitter. It’s already been ripped out :(.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6291.jpeg
    IMG_6291.jpeg
    206.7 KB · Views: 62
Last edited:
IMG_6320.jpeg


Dummy panels are forever safe. Four buttons to come!
I've never seen the Banapass Vewlix panel. I'm interested to see if this will mount correctly. I designed it to completely replace the reader and mounting bracket in a Noir. If it ends up not working, let me know and I can probably make a new model.
 
I've never seen the Banapass Vewlix panel. I'm interested to see if this will mount correctly. I designed it to completely replace the reader and mounting bracket in a Noir. If it ends up not working, let me know and I can probably make a new model.

Oh geez, I didnt even realize you didn't make it for a Vewlix. I'll double check when I get home to see if it remotely matches up.
 
IMG_6361.jpeg
IMG_6362.jpeg
Good news. While the screw hole mounts were extremely far off, the shape of the unit was the same. And thanks to the mounting plate pinching the enclosure to the control panel it honestly makes zero difference that the control board can’t be screwed down. There’s no wiggle or anything with this plate so I think it works just fine!

Can’t wait to install the buttons, now.
 
So I ran into some problems. I installed my home, select, L3 and R3 buttons yesterday. Initially they weren't being recognized by Steam's controller test. However, inexplicably, after some time they kinda just showed up. Fine, I figured, not a problem. Even after restarts, they worked, and they also worked on the Xbox 360, not just the PC, so no harm no foul.

Only one issue was happening, and that was the guide button only worked about 2/3 of the time. It wasn't the end of the world, as it's just a guide button, but it was still a bit odd. No grounding issues, my harnesses that plugged into the Hadouken custom IO were made by him and installed in the correct spot, so who knows.

A couple hours of gaming later and suddenly I notice my LB has been changed to RB, and my RB to RT. Just... suddenly. I spend the rest of Sunday and Sunday night going over every connection, every wire, verifying no grounding was happening anywhere etc, but could find no issue.

Oddly, Steam seemed to recognize the controls were correct until I reset the controls to stock default, however games regardless of what Steam said, all saw the controls as messed up where those two buttons were. Mind you, the moment the LB and RB controls borked, the guide button worked perfectly from there on out, which is odd.

I came to the obvious conclusion. It can't be the wiring harness as the backup harness I had produced the same results. It couldn't be the custom IO as it doesn't allow for button input changes etc. So it MUST be the Brook UFB. There's literally no other components between the control panel and the computer/xbox.

So I ordered a new Brook UFB on Amazon and got it in yesterday. As you can imagine, much to my shock, when I plugged it in... same results. Unfortunately, only the Brook XB Fighting Board gives you a GUI program to remap controls, so there was no recourse.

Chris from hadouken did offer to help, but honestly at this point I had already been at least 8 hours into this troubleshooting, and to prevent this from happening again or having it hang over my head, I decided to directly wire up everything to the Brook, myself.

It took some time to make all the wires/quick disconnects and negative daisy chains, but it's done and beautiful. I've bundled up the wires in a way that nothing pinches and there's tons of clearance space, and now there is a metric ton of space in the control panel that's empty that used to be taken up by the custom IO and the stock wiring harness.

Very happy, everything works perfectly, and crisis averted. If I had known I could do this so relatively easily, myself, I'd had done this from the start.

BEFORE:

IMG_5999.JPG

AFTER:

IMG_6473.jpg



ImportedPhoto.741628709.927961.jpg
 
Sounds like it was probably a wiring issue but fwiw, I have Brook UFB Fusions and they behave very strangely in Xbox One mode on Windows 10, which is the default mode. I have to make sure they're in 360 mode to be reliable.
 
Sounds like it was probably a wiring issue but fwiw, I have Brook UFB Fusions and they behave very strangely in Xbox One mode on Windows 10, which is the default mode. I have to make sure they're in 360 mode to be reliable.
I agree the Brook adapters aren't exactly 100% reliable, but in regards to how they communicate, this was on automatic switch, with the PC using the Xbox Series/One mode and the Xbox 360 using the 360 mode. I only manually switched these modes later to determine whether or not each controller profile was messed up.

As far as the wiring, I had three other people look it over, in addition to my several hours of work. I'm not going to say I've been doing electrical for an extremely long time or something, but at the same time it's also kind of hard to mess up. you put the two pin adapters in the appropriate slots for their cooresponding buttons in the IO, you place the main control panel harness in its slot all the way down and lock it it, you make sure any unused quick disconnect cables are covered in a non-conductive sleeve and not touching the metal cab, and you make sure all wires route to their appropriate destinations.

Please keep in mind, even when completely disconnecting all four new buttons, restarting the Brook AND both updating and reverting firmware, these controls never changed from their messed up orientation. And at that point, with only the main action buttons and joystick plugged in, it's literally just the main control panel harness plugged in, which I must have reseated at least 20 times, and verified it was working on the stock IO. So, I'm not exactly sure it can be so easily dismissed as a wiring issue.
 
For what it’s worth I actually experienced the same intermittent guide button behavior on my pair of Brook UFBs in my Vewlix but was able to resolve it by updating the firmware. I had purchased mine last September(both were UFB Fusion) and with the default firmware the guide button would not reliably operate. Once I updated the firmware this spring everything operated just fine. If it’ll help I can try to check out which specific firmware revision solved it. Mine operate in the default Xbox Series / One mode. Now if only I could get windows to not randomly reorder them!
 
For what it’s worth I actually experienced the same intermittent guide button behavior on my pair of Brook UFBs in my Vewlix but was able to resolve it by updating the firmware. I had purchased mine last September(both were UFB Fusion) and with the default firmware the guide button would not reliably operate. Once I updated the firmware this spring everything operated just fine. If it’ll help I can try to check out which specific firmware revision solved it. Mine operate in the default Xbox Series / One mode. Now if only I could get windows to not randomly reorder them!
Interesting. I'm not sure what came stock on it, but the newest firmware available seems to not give me any issues, though my guide button fixed itself before without the need of a firmware update, so who knows what's going on haha.
 
Back
Top