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Gifted NAC Restoration Thread

kikaso said:
Good eye! I also have another MS9 yoke but the convergence was way off on that too. I guess I should stick with the other one, (non-SU)?

IMG_6807.jpeg
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Yeah, definitely use this one instead.
I'm not seeing the typical three rubber wedges in place, only that one on the right. If you are pushing all the way up against it, it's going to list off to the side, and that'll never look good. Aim to get the distance such that it's pushing up against the rubber wedge, but is centered and equidistant on all sides. Then, you should get some wedges and secure it firmly in that position.
 
Hatsune Mike said:
Yeah, definitely use this one instead.
I'm not seeing the typical three rubber wedges in place, only that one on the right. If you are pushing all the way up against it, it's going to list off to the side, and that'll never look good. Aim to get the distance such that it's pushing up against the rubber wedge, but is centered and equidistant on all sides. Then, you should get some wedges and secure it firmly in that position.
Click to expand...

Okay I’ll make the swap this weekend. There’s definitely one missing wedge; I’ll see if I can find a replacement. Thanks!
 
Sorry, I might have spoken too soon. While the first one is definitely the wrong MS9-29SU one, on second glance the other one might be an odd type, or is simply upside-down.

Little MS9-29 mnemonic for the connectors: the color starting with B should be on the inner side, closer to the flyback. Both Blue and Brown face in!

Here's a shot of a yoke on an MS9-29A.

IMG_2979.jpg
 
Hatsune Mike said:
Sorry, I might have spoken too soon. While the first one is definitely the wrong MS9-29SU one, on second glance the other one might be an odd type, or is simply upside-down.

Little MS9-29 mnemonic for the connectors: the color starting with B should be on the inner side, closer to the flyback. Both Blue and Brown face in!

Here's a shot of a yoke on an MS9-29A.

IMG_2979.jpg
Click to expand...

Very interesting. The impedance was within MS9 specs but I’ll take a look this weekend.

Lh: 0.194mH
Lv: 16.11mH
 
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kikaso said:
Thanks!

It takes 30 seconds to remove the tube? Don’t know why someone didn’t remove it.

I take it that there’s no easy risk free way of removing the overspray from the tube😇
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They either had it out and just had paint flying all over the place or left 'it inside the cabinet LOL

Just leave it on there tbh its not like drenched in paint not a big deal just more of a ... okay w/e situation.
 
Very interesting. The impedance was within MS9 specs but I’ll take a look this weekend.
It really just might be flipped 180 degrees. The little adjustable coil is normally on the bottom of the MS9 yoke.
 
Hatsune Mike said:
It really just might be flipped 180 degrees. The little adjustable coil is normally on the bottom of the MS9 yoke.
Click to expand...

I rotated the yoke 180° and, while adjusting the HH15 pot, the monitor shut off and now doesn’t come back on. The chassis recently blew a HOT and I replaced with a HOT from a parts board so I’m thinking I need to use a new HOT?
 
New HOT from eBay seems to be working fine. I also replaced the voltage regulator at Q901 just because I had a new one.

Now, the image is way too wide, even with the chassis set to “narrow.”

EDIT: I adjusted the H Lin pot and was able to make the image narrower but the far right and left don’t look right now.
 

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Let's get a shot of your chassis near the HOT and the S-capacitors.

If the image is way too wide, and your corners have such jazzed up convergence... it's possible you have a Blast MS-293x yoke?! That tracks with the extra coil situation on the back of the yoke.

If it's a Blast yoke, save it - could be useful one day - but it will never look good on this tube.
 
While I wait for a replacement MS9 yoke, I wanted to provide some small progress updates from the past few months.

The bracket that holds the coin switch arrived broken and poorly glued. Luckily, someone has already designed a 3D-printed replacement bracket and it works really well!

IMG_5975_Original.jpeg


I also took this as an opportunity to replace the non-original coin mech with what would have been included in a NAC. Thanks to @AlxUnderBase for sourcing an original Asahi 100-yen coin mech.

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Secondly, I was able to source a new control panel support to replace a poorly repaired one. @stickfans responded to my WTB post a while back and shipped it from overseas. The replacement CP support has minor surface scratches but it's in overall great condition. I'm planning on respraying the entire cabinet so I don't mind the very minor surface scratches. (Check out that color difference!)

IMG_6699_Original.jpeg


I would have preferred to keep the original panel support, however, the person who repaired the corner crack did a sloppy job and redoing it would have been above my skill level and/or a ton of work. The crack in the center seems to have been repaired well or, at least, the plastic on either side of the crack was properly aligned.

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Additionally, I took some time to replace the electrolytic capacitors on the PSU that came with the cabinet. It's a 400-5198 PSU in good working order. so this was just preventive maintenance. I'm glad that I took this step as some of the capacitors had already started leaking and were eating away at the PCB. Cleaned it up and shelved the PSU as a spare given that I'm using the NVS-4000.

IMG_6814_Original.jpeg


Finally, I replaced the original 2L6B control panel with a reproduction 2L12B from @alberto1225
Thanks to @clintkolodziej for recommending knurled thumb nuts for mounting the CP. makes installation (and swapping) faster.
I had to whip up new 1P and 2P harnesses to accommodate the new LS-32s with PCBs and kick harnesses for the extra buttons.

IMG_7293_Original.jpeg


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Upcoming tasks include adding ground wiring to the control panel and coin chute and refurbishing the NVS-4000 PSU, (new electrolytic capacitors and fan).
 
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is that paint overspray on the PSU circuit board?? How is that even possible
 
Posting a quick update on control panel wiring.

I whipped together a short adapter harness to convert a 2L12B panel to JAMMA+

1 2 3
4 5 6

to

2 3 4
1 X X

I believe Sega made these officially but I didn’t find much information on it. My use case is primarily playing Neo Geo single slot board with a 2L12B CP.
 

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