- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
Clownkicker
Student
Built one of these this weekend, works great! Thanks for putting this out there! @Frank_fjs @Arthrimus
Sanity check on aisle 2 lol:
I didn't realise I should have got QBP until after I had ordered my PCB's, I also ain't going to buy the 10-pin to 6-pin ISP adapter...just going to jury-rig it with some Dupont wires and a DB15.
So from the attached diagram and the silkscreens I think this is correct, can someone confirm, I'm just a tiny bit scared of releasing the magic smoke!
Hopefully this helps the other cheapskates out there!
I didn't realise I should have got QBP until after I had ordered my PCB's, I also ain't going to buy the 10-pin to 6-pin ISP adapter...just going to jury-rig it with some Dupont wires and a DB15.
So from the attached diagram and the silkscreens I think this is correct, can someone confirm, I'm just a tiny bit scared of releasing the magic smoke!
| 10-pin | DB15 | |
| MOSI | 1 | 11 |
| VCC | 2 | 8 |
| RST | 5 | 9 |
| SCK | 7 | 10 |
| MISO | 9 | 2 |
| Ground | 10 | 1 |
Hopefully this helps the other cheapskates out there!
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I'll confirm this evening when I'm home from work.
Risk of damage is minimal, the programmer has protection diodes but yeah, I'll still confirm for peace of mind.
Risk of damage is minimal, the programmer has protection diodes but yeah, I'll still confirm for peace of mind.
Thanks @Frank_fjs
Flipping burgers! I've accidentally gone and had 10 PCBs made using the old gerbers (from the @Arthrimus github), so I have a C1 and R1-R4, which look like 0805 pads and I have no LED, oh and a J1 on the back.
Any reason why I wouldn't just build these ones, I have a range of 0805 passives in my spares bin, I can't find the values for C1 and R1-R4, 0.1uF and 1K like the 1206 version perchance, and whats J1 on the back for?
Oh and i got the 10-pin to 6-pin doo-da, I literally walked passed Jaycar today and thought what the hay!
Flipping burgers! I've accidentally gone and had 10 PCBs made using the old gerbers (from the @Arthrimus github), so I have a C1 and R1-R4, which look like 0805 pads and I have no LED, oh and a J1 on the back.
Any reason why I wouldn't just build these ones, I have a range of 0805 passives in my spares bin, I can't find the values for C1 and R1-R4, 0.1uF and 1K like the 1206 version perchance, and whats J1 on the back for?
Oh and i got the 10-pin to 6-pin doo-da, I literally walked passed Jaycar today and thought what the hay!
J1 needs to be bridged / closed for programming. It's the reset line of the Atmega. I left it open in my design as it didn't cause any conflict with arcade hardware / superguns. It can cause conflict if the adapter's are used on an AES console.
The cap is definitely a 0.1uF. The resistor info is buried somewhere in his thread, I know a few of them were 1K but I can't quite remember. He has extra resistors as a safety measure in case 5V goes down the right path. I omitted them as I prefer a lighter component count and didn't see them as a necessary measure for the use case.
The cap is definitely a 0.1uF. The resistor info is buried somewhere in his thread, I know a few of them were 1K but I can't quite remember. He has extra resistors as a safety measure in case 5V goes down the right path. I omitted them as I prefer a lighter component count and didn't see them as a necessary measure for the use case.
R1 and R2 are supposed to be 100ohm resistors for current limiting, but I've also removed them on my newer design because I found that certain more power hungry controller PCBs have issues with the current limiting resistors in place. You can just short R1 and R2.
R3 and R4 are 1K resistors that are supposed to help with signal reflection on the select lines when using long controller cables.
C1 is 0.1uf
There's nothing wrong with the old design, and it works fine with the current firmware, but it lacks the LED so you don't have a visual indicator of the remapping process. Otherwise it's the same as the new design. You do have to make sure to short J1 while you are programming it because J1 connects reset to pin 9 of the DB15 connector. You can clear the short once you are done programming it.
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Thanks @Frank_fjs & @Arthrimus
On J1, bearing in mind that I have to remove the short after programming then I'm thinking of soldering a tiny bit of wire as it should be easier to remove than a blob of solder?
Is the ISP to DB15 pinout on this old revision the same as the new?
On J1, bearing in mind that I have to remove the short after programming then I'm thinking of soldering a tiny bit of wire as it should be easier to remove than a blob of solder?
Is the ISP to DB15 pinout on this old revision the same as the new?
| DB15 | |
| MOSI | 11 |
| VCC | 8 |
| RST | 9 |
| SCK | 10 |
| MISO | 2 |
| Ground | 1 |
Do whatever is easiest for you. The ISP pinout is the same on all of my adapters.
Thanks @Frank_fjs!
Zadig was like 2 hours ago, I can't get rid of the red X on WCID though ("Install WCID Driver" doesn't fix it).
Zadig was like 2 hours ago, I can't get rid of the red X on WCID though ("Install WCID Driver" doesn't fix it).
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Thanks @Frank_fjs!
Now I'm getting "Cannot Communicate with Target Chip"
I did have the USB ISP on it's default 5v jumper for a bit, I wonder if it damaged the 328P
Now I'm getting "Cannot Communicate with Target Chip"
I did have the USB ISP on it's default 5v jumper for a bit, I wonder if it damaged the 328P
Thanks @Frank_fjs!
A clue, if the jumper on the AVRISP is set to 5v the USBISP switches off when the SAT2NEO is connected
A clue, if the jumper on the AVRISP is set to 5v the USBISP switches off when the SAT2NEO is connected
