Sammy Atomiswave SD Restoration

[mourix]

Another day, another questionable purchase: a Sammy Atomiswave SD that spent a decade in a very damp shed.

...But it looks pretty nice right?

Hmm that is a lot of rust at the bottom.

Let's open it up.

Crap...

To be continued...

 

[loegan43]

Looks pretty good. Nice cab!

 

[mourix]

Diagnosis time.

You know, all in it does not look that bad. Just little bits of rust around the entire thing.

Some missing stickers and bonus grime, but the CPO does not even need to be replaced really.

I actually got this machine after a tip from a discord member who went to look but did not take the machine. He got the monitor working during his visit but said it had sync issues and the neck board was loose before it worked. When I tried the cab at home, the monitor had the famous click of death with the monitor trying to start but failing. The power supply rails did seem fine but I guess I can not make any assumptions there.

Time to take it apart. Looking inside shows remarkable a remarkably clean machine, not counting the obvious rust.

Again, the PCBs do not look high hour really. I guess the coin counter at 10933 confirms that.

Some investigation found the two most probable causes for my monitor issues.
First off, the plastic of the CRT neck is loose. Secondly, it was a miracle the flyback even started once with those solder joints...

Status right now:

1. Ordered electronics safe silicone glue for the CRT.
2. Added some first stuff to the monitor wiki and started the PSU wiki.
3. Began making cap lists/maps for the monitor/PSU.
4. Am approaching some contacts for a possible complete automotive respray for this thing.

 

[mourix]

81 euros worth of caps from Mouser came in, so let's get start with the PSU.

The Wei-Ya P271 came with "quality" caps from the likes of Giant, TK and S. Replaced them all with good 105C Panasonic, Nichicon and Wima.
Also resoldered everything while I was at it.

It came right back to life, even though it technically was not broken in the first place. I also made this wiki page with everything I learned plus a cap map.

 

[nem]

TK

Not sure what the other two are, but Toshin Kogyo is as good as any other brand:

http://www.toshinkk.co.jp/en/product/electrolytic-capacitors.html

That's all. Carry on.

 

[mourix]

So you want to recap a Wei-Ya M3129D, huh?

Let this be a first warning. This marvel of tri-sync engineering is made from mostly analog circuits, which means the sheer amount of caps is nuts.
I spent around 4 afternoons soldering and the thing is not even 100% working yet.

To begin, I made this cap guide for the project.

On your path, you will encounter hilariously broken solders joints and caps in barely reachable places.

Also inspect glue corrosion and replace toasted resistors.

When done, reflow EVERY solder joint and fix the few solder pads you'll inevitably have torn off.

And then I turned it on...Click.Click..Click...and no picture. Not a single CGA source worked.

Eventually I tried my new VGA tester and looked up:

After dialing it in, I did get an amazing VGA picture.

So it seems I have created a perfect VGA monitor here, but all my standard res boards just keep the monitor in a 1Hz relay click loop.
Can anyone confirm the monitor is always in this relay click loop in case of no signal? Or is this the problem already?

I did not replace a few caps due to availability but I am going to order them just in case.

 

[bagheera369]

I can't remember 100%, but I thought the wei-ya 3129d just came up "no signal", when nothing was plugged in? Im sorry if i'm wrong.

This is a solid shape cab, and I've brought one back from less rust, but WAY worse condition, so I believe you're gonna turn this into something awesome when you're done, especially as you've accomplished SO MUCH in such a short time already.

 

[mourix]

I can't remember 100%, but I thought the wei-ya 3129d just came up "no signal", when nothing was plugged in? Im sorry if i'm wrong.

This is a solid shape cab, and I've brought one back from less rust, but WAY worse condition, so I believe you're gonna turn this into something awesome when you're done, especially as you've accomplished SO MUCH in such a short time already.

Thanks you, I am doing my best and agree this must have been a 9/10 condition cab before the cold storage and cat pee..

I did just build a quick CRT-emudriver setup to confirm the monitor works on 31K en 25K, but not on 15K. Strange.

 

[bagheera369]

I wish I had further answers for you on that chassis....but the first steps I've always seen with the Wei-Ya's were reflow them with lead solder, put a fan on em, if possible, and fucking pray.

You may check through all of Ken Layton/Modesitt's stuff across the various forums and see if he has anything.....or poke around for some of the Randy Fromm flowcharts and see if he had one for the 3129 anywhere.

I wish you luck with it.....but at least you have something on the screen, which is far better than driving home with it for 5 hours, hauling it upstairs, and then trying to rotate it while exhausted, and necking it before you ever got a game on it, cause you missed disconnecting the neckboard.

Ask me how I know all about that one......sigh.

 

[imbord3rlin3]

if you get 31khz but not 15, i know what caused that but not how to fix it. thast happens when you plug in a jamma game but didnt set the psu to 15hkz. i did it to my awsd. if your tube is single focus, i have a spare i can sell u. if its dual focus ur in for a rough time finding a replacement cuz those are tough to find. i had sharp repair my chassis but it took like 3 months for them to do it.

 

[neokoen]

It has been a while since I had the Wei-Ya, is your 15kHz source a JAMMA board that routes through the small VGA adapter board at the bottom of the cab?
Otherwise it perhaps might not like to be fed V-sync.
For some boards (I think Neo-Geo) you had to connect a small connector labelled "D" to ty the V-Sync line to C/H-sync.
Not sure that would cause the clicking problem though, I don't remember it doing that when that connector was not properly set, just rolling image.

 

[mourix]

I wish I had further answers for you on that chassis....but the first steps I've always seen with the Wei-Ya's were reflow them with lead solder, put a fan on em, if possible, and fucking pray.

You may check through all of Ken Layton/Modesitt's stuff across the various forums and see if he has anything.....or poke around for some of the Randy Fromm flowcharts and see if he had one for the 3129 anywhere.

I wish you luck with it.....but at least you have something on the screen, which is far better than driving home with it for 5 hours, hauling it upstairs, and then trying to rotate it while exhausted, and necking it before you ever got a game on it, cause you missed disconnecting the neckboard.

Ask me how I know all about that one......sigh.

Thanks. I am googling everything and learning to pray as we speak. I'm sorry for your loss

if you get 31khz but not 15, i know what caused that but not how to fix it. thast happens when you plug in a jamma game but didnt set the psu to 15hkz. i did it to my awsd. if your tube is single focus, i have a spare i can sell u. if its dual focus ur in for a rough time finding a replacement cuz those are tough to find. i had sharp repair my chassis but it took like 3 months for them to do it.

What do you mean by "setting the psu to 15khz"? Do you mean the impedance switch on the remote board? It unfortunately is a dual focus chassis.

It has been a while since I had the Wei-Ya, is your 15kHz source a JAMMA board that routes through the small VGA adapter board at the bottom of the cab?
Otherwise it perhaps might not like to be fed V-sync.
For some boards (I think Neo-Geo) you had to connect a small connector labelled "D" to ty the V-Sync line to C/H-sync.
Not sure that would cause the clicking problem though, I don't remember it doing that when that connector was not properly set, just rolling image.

I've tried a Neo Geo and Pandora through jamma with both sync options, and a crt emudriver pc setup right into the vga board.

 

[imbord3rlin3]

Thanks. I am googling everything and learning to pray as we speak. I'm sorry for your loss


What do you mean by "setting the psu to 15khz"? Do you mean the impedance switch on the remote board? It unfortunately is a dual focus chassis.


I've tried a Neo Geo and Pandora through jamma with both sync options, and a crt emudriver pc setup right into the vga board.

oh yeah thats right, i have a meanwell in mine. when i blew it i had the wei ya psu and jvs plugged into a namco system 256 and then plugged in a jamma board. that blew the 15khz .

 

[Hedonism Bot 2.0]

If you’re getting 31k and 24k but not 15, it’s usually the auto switching relay. I’ve fixed a few of these years ago- I don’t remember the part number but these chassis are an absolute bastard to work on and repair. Also know these chassis are very picky with 15k.

You’re over the hill doing the recap and reflow- also look at getting a fan blowing on it, they run real hot.

 

[imbord3rlin3]

i used a fan that runs externally from the cab placed right on that clear plastic. def a huge help. ive run that cab 12 hours at a time

 

[mourix]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will add the fan.

If we really want 100%, I did also notice a random spark from the monitor at times. The wiki says to really clean the anode glass? Any tips?

If you’re getting 31k and 24k but not 15, it’s usually the auto switching relay. I’ve fixed a few of these years ago- I don’t remember the part number but these chassis are an absolute bastard to work on and repair. Also know these chassis are very picky with 15k.

You’re over the hill doing the recap and reflow- also look at getting a fan blowing on it, they run real hot.

Thanks you. That deflection daughterboard already had my attention as it has the bipolar cap not yet replaced. I'll add the relay and measure the transistors/diodes while I'm there.

 

[Hedonism Bot 2.0]

Thanks for the input, guys. I will add the fan.

If we really want 100%, I did also notice a random spark from the monitor at times. The wiki says to really clean the anode glass? Any tips?



Thanks you. That deflection daughterboard already had my attention as it has the bipolar cap not yet replaced. I'll add the relay and measure the transistors/diodes while I'm there.

Back when I worked on these, I used this guide:

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Rodotron_666

Weiya used to make these tri mode replacement chassis for astros and blasts and they have all the same issues.

@dewmansnk recommended this fan for me to use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWVUJ0

 

[dewmansnk]

https://i.imgur.com/L6A4z6m.jpeg

Did you replace the purple cap in the top-right of the photo? (The one with the orange OK label)
That is a bipolar cap used in the horizontal deflection circuit and has a really high ripple current rating (probably > 5.0 Amps)
http://www.frc-cap.com/products/info.php?id=7273
You are not likely to find a replacement cap on digikey that will have that high of ripple current.

I ended up using this cap as a replacement - https://www.tedss.com/2020063928

That OEM cap has 75V printed on it, but if you check the first link you will see it actually has a 50V voltage rating, hence why I used that Nichicon UHA1H4R7KHA. It looks like tedss.com is sold out of them now.

 

[mourix]

Back when I worked on these, I used this guide:

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Rodotron_666

Weiya used to make these tri mode replacement chassis for astros and blasts and they have all the same issues.

@dewmansnk recommended this fan for me to use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OWVUJ0

I actually got both an untested 666a and c3129 chassis in my stash waiting for it one day. The cleaning spirits he recommends are not easily bought in the Netherlands though. Any idea of a substitute?

https://i.imgur.com/L6A4z6m.jpeg

Did you replace the purple cap in the top-right of the photo? (The one with the orange OK label)
That is a bipolar cap used in the horizontal deflection circuit and has a really high ripple current rating (probably > 5.0 Amps)
http://www.frc-cap.com/products/info.php?id=7273
You are not likely to find a replacement cap on digikey that will have that high of ripple current.

I ended up using this cap as a replacement - https://www.tedss.com/2020063928

That OEM cap has 75V printed on it, but if you check the first link you will see it actually has a 50V voltage rating, hence why I used that Nichicon UHA1H4R7KHA. It looks like tedss.com is sold out of them now.

That is great advice. I put in a UEP2A4R7MED. What issues would that end up giving?

 

[mourix]

I did read up on the deflection cap. Seems like the one I put in will probably not live much longer than the crap Wei Ya put in. But the special horizontal deflection rated caps don't exist anymore. I should probably look at some nice high frequency film.

And whoops, methylated spirits is just denatured alcohol. The jar of isopropyl alcohol I got will probably suffice.