Garou is only P without cutscenes and kof2000 with not completely broken protection, with a bunch of artifacts.
And Garou definitely needs a patch so that the game doesn't crash when one of the fighters performs a super strike.
Reverse engineering 161 in 1 cartridge to change Rom games
- Thread starter goguelnikov
- Start date
And Garou definitely needs a patch so that the game doesn't crash when one of the fighters performs a super strike.
Tailsnic Retroworks
Professional
Many thanks for the info. Decrypting "garou" rom and adapting S-ROM to 128KB mode wouldn't be easier?
I don't know, but if they're still using the Prototype version, it means it's not that easy and no one has succeeded yet, or maybe no one really tried.
There's a separate thread for Garou here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/mark-of-the-wolves-reverse-engineering-thread.27735/
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/mark-of-the-wolves-reverse-engineering-thread.27735/
littlecharlie
Beginner
I'm desperate with the C/V roms ... I was able to program successfully 2 roms, but the rest, it's impossible. It's either bad chip ID, or pins open ...
I've tested continuity and bridges like crazy times, it all seems ok. Inside the daughter board, inside the programmer board and weact. And all together.
Can't find the problem.
And by the way, what does "D25 open! Check pin C1" or "A8 open (pin B8 )" mean? These are example of the errors I get in the weact.
I guess "D25" and "A8" are pins from the rom, using the pinout leonk and pluger posted:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...rtridge-to-change-rom-games.15069/post-446497
But which pin is "C1"? It can't be from the weact, because the corresponding pin in the weact for the D25 is "C6" (not "C1").
And the corresponding pin in the weact for the "A8" is "B9" (not "B8")
Anyway, D25 and A8 are perfectly connected (checked several times), so really lost here ...
I'm using the enhanced software, and the 3V mod.
I've tested continuity and bridges like crazy times, it all seems ok. Inside the daughter board, inside the programmer board and weact. And all together.
Can't find the problem.
And by the way, what does "D25 open! Check pin C1" or "A8 open (pin B8 )" mean? These are example of the errors I get in the weact.
I guess "D25" and "A8" are pins from the rom, using the pinout leonk and pluger posted:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...rtridge-to-change-rom-games.15069/post-446497
But which pin is "C1"? It can't be from the weact, because the corresponding pin in the weact for the D25 is "C6" (not "C1").
And the corresponding pin in the weact for the "A8" is "B9" (not "B8")
Anyway, D25 and A8 are perfectly connected (checked several times), so really lost here ...
I'm using the enhanced software, and the 3V mod.
I periodically get the A8 open error on the P board, but everything is fine and the dump matches the original rom.
littlecharlie
Beginner
I'm sick of the AliExpress pins ... Can you please share links of the double pins 1,27 mm and 2,54 mm that work fine from mouser or similar?
Mouser pins fail eventually as well. Here's what I do that will save you a ton of frustration. Before you connect the programmer to the adapter and plug the memory into the adapter, dip a toothbrush into your bottle of IPA and scrub all the pins. This will remove all the oxidation and gunk that stuck to the pins. And like magic, everything will start working.
littlecharlie
Beginner
That's a good advice (and will do so as a routine) but not working for me in this specific problem
I think my weact is broken. It's given me bad chip id and several other errors on a PROM, which are easy to solder and check continuity/bridges ...
Have to order a new one and wait another 2 weeks
The WeAct is a simple DEV board. What's broken is probably the STM32H750VBT6. There is no protection on the I/O pins of this microcontroller. A defective flash chip (or bad soldering) can connect the 3V line to the I/O line damaging the STM32. I've now replaced the microcontroller 3 times; they're sold on Digikey or mouser for less than the cost of a new WeAct.
littlecharlie
Beginner
Sounda good but that chip doesn't seem very easy to swap, the lcd and other components are very closed ... I'm worried I might dammage them with the air station
And for soldering the new one, you use solder paste and again air station , right?
You remove the LCD screen, you hot air remove the chip, clean pads, flux, solder, reprogram. If you can do the SROM/MROM on the 161-in-1, you can do this CPU. I've never used solder paste in my life.
littlecharlie
Beginner
Actually I use solder paste for S/R ROMs with good results, but I'll try normal solder and see if I can handle those tiny pins/pads.You remove the LCD screen, you hot air remove the chip, clean pads, flux, solder, reprogram. If you can do the SROM/MROM on the 161-in-1, you can do this CPU. I've never used solder paste in my life.
I try to limit the amount of heat the S/M ROMs get. I've had a couple of the chips get destroyed during the removal process just from hot air (300C caused a bubble to form in the plastic!) Using a temperature controlled soldering station (I use a Hakko FX-971) under a microscope makes sure that only the legs get hot and not the package. Paste is good for PCB production / hot plate; I can drag solder much faster with similar results.
All 3 of my cartridges work without problems, not a single chip was burned, because I used a low-temperature Rose alloy for desoldering. For the final soldering to the board, I already used ordinary solder. A lot of time has been spent on all this, and if you are not engaged in soldering semi-professionally, then for the sake of one cartridge it is better not to bother and buy an already modified one.
littlecharlie
Beginner
How did you solve the vertical artifacts in the end?
And do you use female connectors in the CHA/PROG boards for the V/C ROMs, or do you solder directly the daughterboards?
And how do you guys clean the pins of the daughterboards?
The vertical stripes are not soldered contacts of the С ROMs on the main or daughter board.
I used a female connector for both the new dual board and the old single board, which doesn't make sense if the old board is fully inserted, then it won't be able to be pulled out due to the solder-stained legs. I did not fully insert the old boards into the adapter board for the programmer, and this was enough for normal contact and relatively easy removal back. But of course, it's better to transfer all the chips to new boards, I just didn't have enough male pins for this.
100% !!!
I have never used the garbage PCBs and pin headers that come with these carts. I always transfer them to new PCBs with through hole pins. Programming them after the transfer has the added bonus of verifying that C ROMs are soldered correctly. If you can program C ROM in new PCB, they will work 100% after you put them back in the cart.
I've had multiple customers ask me if the MVS Vortex cart can be used with an AES adapter (like Furrtek's excellent Fusion converter). Posting the answer here so I can forward customers to a single spot.
TLTR; it depends. Try and and see.
Long answer:
- Furrtek does not support multi-carts with his adapter. If it works, great. If it doesn't then nothing can be done about it.
- Not all AES consoles are made the same. Some work with everything you toss at them, some don't work even with stock, unmodified, AES 161-in-1.
- The MVS adapter puts even more power demand on a system that might be already struggling with the 3 FPGAs in the 161-in-1
- The FPGA code on an MVS Vortex cart is different than AES Vortex cart (MVS have extra piracy measures the AES doesn't) So you will see behaviour differences
--> e.g. pressing the reset button on the AES console with an MVS Vortex cart in an adapter will reset the running game. Real AES Vortex cart will kick you back to the game select menu
--> Proof: If you got an MVS Vortex cart in an MVS PCB that automatically goes back to the game select menu with some games, that's because the AES FPGA code was loaded onto the cart by accident and the anti piracy measures in the MVS PCB is being triggered.
On a personal note, while I understand the appeal of AES (I have one and love it) The Neo Geo is an arcade platform. It was modified (not that well) into a home console. Every revision has its quirks. A well made CMVS with a good PSU, in my experience, is a much more stable platform for multi-carts (and cheaper for real cart collectors!)
TLTR; it depends. Try and and see.
Long answer:
- Furrtek does not support multi-carts with his adapter. If it works, great. If it doesn't then nothing can be done about it.
- Not all AES consoles are made the same. Some work with everything you toss at them, some don't work even with stock, unmodified, AES 161-in-1.
- The MVS adapter puts even more power demand on a system that might be already struggling with the 3 FPGAs in the 161-in-1
- The FPGA code on an MVS Vortex cart is different than AES Vortex cart (MVS have extra piracy measures the AES doesn't) So you will see behaviour differences
--> e.g. pressing the reset button on the AES console with an MVS Vortex cart in an adapter will reset the running game. Real AES Vortex cart will kick you back to the game select menu
--> Proof: If you got an MVS Vortex cart in an MVS PCB that automatically goes back to the game select menu with some games, that's because the AES FPGA code was loaded onto the cart by accident and the anti piracy measures in the MVS PCB is being triggered.
On a personal note, while I understand the appeal of AES (I have one and love it) The Neo Geo is an arcade platform. It was modified (not that well) into a home console. Every revision has its quirks. A well made CMVS with a good PSU, in my experience, is a much more stable platform for multi-carts (and cheaper for real cart collectors!)
Anyone who has the older V2 cart that uses the STILTs (like Vortex's own cart per pictures he posted) you can convert those to a Vortex All-in-1 cart. You don't need a V3 cart. The only added complexity is the STILTs. Here's what you need:
1. PCB adapter to support the F0095H0 (CROM1, CROM2, VROM) - Gerbers: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/VFKO0LfW
2. Flex adapter to support the F0095H0 (CROM3) Use flex for easier overlap install (see picture below - there's 2 chips there if you look carefully) and isolate OE1/OE2/OE3/OE4 between CROM1 and CROM3
3. Wire OE1/OE2/OE3/OE4 on CROM3 to the FPGA no different than V3
With this method, you will have no space issues on AES.
Don't bother using the STILT programmer PCBs Vortex published. His Gerbers have a mistake and 1/2 the chip won't program due to write protect being triggered. Program in pogo pin adapter or in V3 adapter.
NOTE: This does not apply to the latest "V2" carts sold right now. Those are V4 carts with PROM being an F0095H0.
1. PCB adapter to support the F0095H0 (CROM1, CROM2, VROM) - Gerbers: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/VFKO0LfW
2. Flex adapter to support the F0095H0 (CROM3) Use flex for easier overlap install (see picture below - there's 2 chips there if you look carefully) and isolate OE1/OE2/OE3/OE4 between CROM1 and CROM3
3. Wire OE1/OE2/OE3/OE4 on CROM3 to the FPGA no different than V3
With this method, you will have no space issues on AES.
Don't bother using the STILT programmer PCBs Vortex published. His Gerbers have a mistake and 1/2 the chip won't program due to write protect being triggered. Program in pogo pin adapter or in V3 adapter.
NOTE: This does not apply to the latest "V2" carts sold right now. Those are V4 carts with PROM being an F0095H0.
