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No, they ask about the holes in the places where the chip is soldered - there, as I understand it, their size does not matter.
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Unlikely at this stage that I'll be able to provide a cart. If you have a cart and can send it to me, I can absolutely get the work done, I just can't provide the initial cart.


Did your V rom work?

I got one to work, but those big flat chips just really didn’t like me. I kept several of them as spares in case I did ever attempt it again, but bought a DS cart
 
No, they ask about the holes in the places where the chip is soldered
Understood.

Ideally these would be manufactured as castellated holes, but too much $$. so they are going to be milled in half when the edge cuts are done.
Agree that the diameter of the hole does not matter for this use case.

Yield might be a bit low, I’d be inspecting carefully.

TL;DR sounds like this is your best manufacturing option, If it was me I’d do it! (And don’t forget the board thickness)
 
I got one to work, but those big flat chips just really didn’t like me. I kept several of them as spares in case I did ever attempt it again, but bought a DS cart
I know shipping is awful, but happy to do them for you. Only thing I'd worry about is that since we'd have different game lists that I can't actually test them.
 
Finally completed the mod today, and started to test it. Everything is totally perfect, except for the sound. It is fine about 99.9% of the time, but occasionally there are slightly distorted samples or notes. This is mostly noticeable on the music of the Metal Slug series, there are some notes sometimes missing, sometimes louder than they should. It is not game-breaking at all, but a bit annoying.

This doesn't happen with my other unmodified 161-in-1, and I'm pretty sure (but not 100%) it didn't happen on this one prior modification, so the MVS board is OK.

@rewrite, @ack, @Vortex, or anyone who already did the mod, did you experience something similar? Tomorrow I'll test the mod described by Vortex to raise the regulator voltage to 3.58v to see if it helps. This mod should be done on the PROG or CHA board? I would expect it to be done on the PROG board, as it contains the V ROMs, but on page 14 of this thread Vortex shows the mod on the CHA board.

Did anyone have luck with the voltage regulator mod?

Thanks everybody.
 
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Finally completed the mod today, and started to test it. Everything is totally perfect, except for the sound. It is fine about 99.9% of the time, but occasionally there are slightly distorted samples or notes. This is mostly noticeable on the music of the Metal Slug series, there are some notes sometimes missing, sometimes louder than they should. It is not game-breaking at all, but a bit annoying.

@rewrite, @ack, @Vortex, or anyone who already did the mod, did you experience something similar? Tomorrow I'll test the mod described by Vortex to raise the regulator voltage to 3.58v to see if it helps. This mod should be done on the PROG or CHA board? I would expect it to be done on the PROG board, as it contains the V ROMs, but on page 14 of this thread Vortex shows the mod on the CHA board.

Did anyone have luck with the voltage regulator mod?

Thanks everybody.
Two carts came back to me for randomly getting louder, and it happened largely on Strikers 1945+. I ended up replacing the voltage regulator with one off of a parts board, and reflowed both the V rom Vcc/GND pins and the Vcc/GND socket pins. There's still a single note in Eightman that's louder than the rest (can find it on stage 2-2), but otherwise it solved everything so far. Played about an hour without it changing volume again where it would do it every 5-6 minutes before.

I did try the voltage regulator mod on one of the boards early on, but it didn't make any difference (but the cart didn't have sound issues to start). I tried it on both boards just in case. I think if the voltage regulator is good, it's fine, but sometimes they're a little dodgy (and they're ALWAYS under-soldered, be sure and reflow all 3-4 pins).
 
No, they ask about the holes in the places where the chip is soldered - there, as I understand it, their size does not matter.

You can attempt to make the holes smaller, but every manufacture I looked at had different requirements for castellated holes then normal through holes. Usually with castellated holes they will have a minimum hole size of 0.6mm and distance between holes of 0.6mm. The only way to get them to make the boards has been to not ask for castellated holes and just let the normal edge cut cut them. This is talked about in the docs

https://github.com/jwestfall69/neogeo-161in1-dual-daughterboard?tab=readme-ov-file#pcb-manufacturing
 
Yes, thank you, I agreed to reduce the size of the holes if the distance between their centers remains the same. With castellated holes, they immediately refused me.
5 double daughter boards cost me $35, for another 10 they asked for only 2 additional dollars, so I ordered 15 - can I use the extra double daughter boards as single ones, for one chip?
 
Yes, thank you, I agreed to reduce the size of the holes if the distance between their centers remains the same. With castellated holes, they immediately refused me.
5 double daughter boards cost me $35, for another 10 they asked for only 2 additional dollars, so I ordered 15 - can I use the extra double daughter boards as single ones, for one chip?
It should work to use the double with a single chip, but I'm not sure if the extended length of the board might interfere with other parts in the cart.
 
It should work to use the double with a single chip, but I'm not sure if the extended length of the board might interfere with other parts in the cart.

It will, but you can cut the front section of the double board to make it a single
 
Finally, I got the audio issues resolved!! I still have to extensively test it, but I think I now have a 100% working cart. I tried a lot of things to fix the audio:
  • Checked and rechecked soldering and continuity, specially on V ROM
  • Remove the voltage regulators and power the cart boards directly with my test bench power supply, at 3.58v
  • Used the test bench power supply, at 5v, to power the whole MVS board
  • Increased the value of the decoupling capacitors of the PCM CPLD and V ROM
  • Changed the CLPD fitting strategy from Area to Balanced and Speed (removing some games from the include files to be able to compile at Speed)
None of this fixed the issue, only minor improvements on some cases, but the sound was still off. When I ran out of ideas, I looked at the Vortex schematics of the PROG board, and I saw two little capacitors, of value unknown, between control signals SDPMPX and SDRMPX and GND. I immediately thought that this a very weird place to put bypass capacitors, and the only reason I could think about, is to introduce some kind of delay on the signals. I removed then, and the sound started to be terribly glitchy. I replaced them with 100pF ones (no for any special reason, I had them handy), and the sound started to works perfectly.

I still have to test it thoroughly, cause maybe I fixed some games and broken others, but till now it seems promising. Metal Slug 2 and Strikers 1945, that were severely affected, now sound fine. Thanks @rewrite for the Strikers 1945 tip, it is a nice game to test, extremely affected by the issue.

Next week, after I tested it deeply, I would like to post some conclusions, advices and photos of the process, I hope it can help anyone that is doing the mod currently, or thinking if doing it or not.
 
None of this fixed the issue, only minor improvements on some cases, but the sound was still off. When I ran out of ideas, I looked at the Vortex schematics of the PROG board, and I saw two little capacitors, of value unknown, between control signals SDPMPX and SDRMPX and GND. I immediately thought that this a very weird place to put bypass capacitors, and the only reason I could think about, is to introduce some kind of delay on the signals. I removed then, and the sound started to be terribly glitchy. I replaced them with 100pF ones (no for any special reason, I had them handy), and the sound started to works perfectly.
Those capacitors have been there forever. They are 47pF caps; a fix GadgetUK came up with years ago and the Chinese have been installing them ever since. I doubt the issue is wrong capacitor value, the issue is more due to cheap unknown brand. This is why I replace all the caps on PCBs I sell with brand name caps.

In the case of these caps, I use X7R rated caps made by Samsung Electro-Mechanics - $0.02 per capacitor from Digi-key.
 
To be honest, I just put two lentil shaped trough hole capacitors I had on my component box, that probably are older than me 😂. Next monday I will measure the value of the original capacitors, the multimeter I have at home can't measure less than 1nF.

As long as it works, I'm not touching it anymore, but is good to know this is not an isolated issue.

I suspect there must be some timing issues between the PCM CPLD and the YM2610, and some combinations of cart and MVS board may require some fine tuning.
 
No surprise the capacitor quality would be just like the voltage regulators and some of them are dodgy while others seem to work just fine.
 
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So what's the deal with these ones? I know in @Vortex 's repo there are pics of a cart with this style daughterboard. Are these effectively the same, just visually different, or altogether not usable? (clearly need a different daughterboard PCB). I'd have assumed not usable, but the pics in the repo have me second guessing.
 
If the connections between the ROMs, the CPLDs and the board edge are the same, they should be usable. Otherwise you will have to do some reverse engineering to figure out how the signals are connected, and modify the CPLDs code in consequence. Regarding the dumping and flashing, on Vortex repo there is a gerber file called "VTXCart_CV_STILT.zip", that I assume is just for this type of daughterboard. And even if everything goes well, I suppose you will have to design your own double daughterboard, or figure out another way to add the third C chip.
 
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