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PGM Consolization Supergun

New PCB day! Got version 1.1 of the breakout board. Now I need some time to test the audio and video circuits, and make any required adjustments before finalising the layout.
IMG_20210216_132018.jpg

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(I already found that my Scart footprint needs some tweaks...)
 
Can't wait. Once this project will be done it'll really give me an idea on how to design my casing for my consolized one.
 
Finally got to test the video output part. Good thing I did, I didn't know that VideoIn/Out and AudioIn/Out are crossed in a scart cable...

Also got a chance to capture levels of the rgb test screen on my scope, without anything connected:

Single line:
NewFile3.png


Full Screen:
NewFile4.png
 
Hi. @Fluffy did you ever finalize your design? I just ordered my first PGM and parts for a 4P cable, but your consolization design looks amazing.
 
Not much further... too much work and other stuff going on.
 
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Spent some time to route this. I may make the inside cut out a bit larger, also I need to validate the RCA sockets and Scart connector. (The last time I used RCA sockets the footprint I used was exactly the opposite of the actual connectors I bought.) I'll have to find my stash of connectors in all my stuff first, though.

This is basically the circuit from Frank fjs' Mingun Supergun combined with the 3+4 Player Adapter. After a lot of indecisiveness I decided to add a 4 pin molex connector and a 20 pin ATX connector to give some choice on power supply, for example a PicoPSU. Also made use of through-hole components.
The power switch is currently using a https://www.digikey.de/de/products/detail/e-switch/PBH2UEENAG1RWHT/1805032 , which grounds the PS_ON input on the ATX connector. If anyone has a better suggestion let me know.
Current cost from JLCPCB should be ~$24 for 5.
 
Looking fantastic. Is this using Frank's Advanced Supergun where it uses the genesis 9 pin mini din? That would be beneficial for many of us in the US. The power switch look similar to OpenMVS so I like it, but not sure on your inquiry about what it's actually doing with the ATX lines. Outside my knowledge base for now.
And are you planning on selling just the PCB like your Cave PCBs and we can buy the BOM ourselves?
 
Right now I'm using 8-pin X-RGB, as mentioned by nam9. I'm not completely sure how I'm going to release this, but rest assured that everyone who wants one can get one.
Edit: Just looked at OpenMVS, yes the switch is the same manufacturer but a different type. If there is any preference to use the same as in OpenMVS I can swap it in the layout.

I picked the one in the current design based on cost, and it look like it can be securely soldered to the pcb.
 
Last edited:
Fluffy said:
Right now I'm using 8-pin X-RGB, as mentioned by nam9. I'm not completely sure how I'm going to release this, but rest assured that everyone who wants one can get one.
Edit: Just looked at OpenMVS, yes the switch is the same manufacturer but a different type. If there is any preference to use the same as in OpenMVS I can swap it in the layout.
Click to expand...
One vote for Mini-DIN 9 here.

From a product marketability standpoint, the retro console community might be riper for a consolized PGM than the arcade fans who already have superguns and related paraphernalia. The retro console world has aligned on Mini-DIN 9 with Genesis 2 pinout, e.g.:
  • Famicom (Krikzz RGB Blaster)
  • Master System (HD Retrovision adapter)
  • PC Engine (TerraOnion SSHD3P, Insurrection Spark Plug, Krikzz EDFX)
  • Genesis 1 (HD Retrovision adapter; native is 8-pin)
  • Genesis 2 / 32X (stock)
  • OpenMVS
  • Jaguar (Humble Bazooka AIOA)
  • PS1 (HD Retrovision adapter)
 
Ok, good point. I started out with Mini-DIN 9/Mega Drive, but dropped it for space reasons.
 
By the way, I'm sure I started out with an MVS style audio amplifier (with the center channel removed). I don't seem to have it in the current design, but I don't remember why I would've removed it... at the moment I just have a voltage divider to line level and AC coupling. Can anyone think why I would have removed it?
 
@Fluffy You were looking into it back here...

As for Mini-DIN 8 vs 9 discussion, not going to argue that all the above instances that @9999 Damage listed are wrong (which they are :D ).
Its just perhaps less clear cut than before. Din 8 direct to Framemeister was a great option when it was THE scaler.
Both are inferior to something like DE-15 + Audio, but that isn't terribly convenient and immediately confused with VGA.
Genesis cables are generally awful in their construction unless you know where to go with those, whereas DIN-8 scart are really only available through the reputable sellers and regardless, don't have any active components to screw up.

There are compromises regardless, so whatever @Fluffy chooses is the right option here.
 
I am happy to add as many connectors as there is space - they don't add to manufacturing cost, and everyone can populate what they can use for their environment. I'm probably going to remove the RCA sockets and move Scart a bit. (You can always use RCA break-out from a cable if you want to use that.) Scart is probably going to be my main use, as I want automatic A/V and aspect ratio switching.
The limit is the screw hole in the middle - I want to keep that to add mechanical stability. And I don't want to add connectors to the sides to keep things compact.
Is there a standard for DE15+Audio?
 
DE-15 + A was an example as a better connection, i.e. each RGBS line is shielded, audio is separate, but a whole mess of being VGA without being VGA, so no. Don't do DE-15.
A separate 3.5mm audio socket is always welcome - @RGB offers that on the HAS to avoid running audio via DIN-8 if preferred.

Of course you have quite a bit of real-estate across the rear as is, so you could have multiple options and just populate as required.
 
Some refinement:
console_top.jpg
console_bottom.jpg


Now with both 8-bit Mini-DIN and 9-pin Mini-DIN, and a 3.5mm stereo audio connector. I changed to the power switch to use the same one OpenMVS is using.
Also to show the bottom side where I labelled important connectors.
 
I think I remember why I removed it. If you just need stereo most resistors and capacitors on the input side are superfluous, and I was wondering if something different would be more appropriate. Though my analogue design skills are virtually non-existent - I bought a book some time ago, but didn't have time to properly work through it.

One option would be to add the MKL circuit, and people can jump over whatever is not required, or just add the AC coupling at the end to add a better amplifier in V2.0...

Anyway, have a clean PDF drawing of the MKL circuit:
 

Attachments

  • Audio_MKL.pdf
    100.2 KB · Views: 109
It's been quite a while now so I'm curious if there has been any updates to this project?
 
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