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My first arcade contract. Input welcome

hoagtech

hoagtech

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After selling my TMNT cab. The guy I sold it to told his buddies and one of them owned Aim and Game in Ferndale WA.

He wanted me to come out to and update some of his CRT cabs he had.

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I told him I would extract the Chassis and hope for the best.

#1. The first up was SF2:

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It had the red missing. All these cabs had the back locks missing and were using woodscrews. It had a K-7000 chassis. I nabbed the chassis and buttoned it back up

#2. TMNT. Same deal as SF2. A K-7000 with red missing.

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If someone wants to share the most common fault for this. I would love to hear it. I am going to take a close look at the transistors on the board but I don't have the tubes with me to test after recap.

#3: Ms. Pacman. This one didn't turn on only the marquee lit up. When I opened it up I reseated all the connections,

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After plugging it back in. It came alive. It still need degaussing as the bottom right of the screen is discolored.

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#4: NFL BLitz. This one didn't have the 2'nd player joystick working. It was barely hanging on and fell off the screw posts. The up direction didn't work at all. I craned under and unlocked the CP and found that the screw were scattered at the bottom of the cab. The posts were fine which made me feel like the joystick was loose for a long time and eventually wiggled out of the screw posts. What's worse is when someone played with the floating joystick. They severed the F terminals of the UP direction. I didn't bring my F's and didn't want to solder onto the directions themselves. So I cut the insulation off the F connector and soldered on top of the crimp and heat-shrinked to cover it up. Controls are working great now.

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#5: Atari Tetris Bootleg. This one stumped me.

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The controls were not working at all. I asked the ticket counter for the key and he found it and I opened up the coin door and was able to coin up on the Happ spring. Everything worked great but the Ticketman said it used to be on FREEPLAY and stopped working.

I looked online to find you can flip the 1st DIP to enter service and enable Free play in bonus options.

Every time I changed bonus options to FREEPLAY. It froze and wouldn't let save and restart.

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I tried rebooting but I just couldn't figure it out. There are 4 DIP switches and I'm thinking maybe one of them controlled FREEPLAY outside of the service menu?? IDK. I'm looking into it and would love to hear an "Ahah!" moment.

#6 Marvel Superheroes. This one had a nice vibrant image but had what liked like vertical collapse happening at the bottom of the screen. I've seen this happen on K-7000 which could be remedied with the PAL knob which stretch the screen when going between 50/60 hz content. This is not a WG chassis though.

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It had a manufacture date of APR 2003 and has a TOVIS marking on it.

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It had a couple pots on it. I didn't feel like turning any until I could research them, a bit. These are the pots on chassis: S.P.C.. HORIZ OSC, V-LIN,

I'm hoping V-LIN fixes the issue but I didn't see it the dark arcade or I would have adjusted it live.

Well that sums it up. These are my issues if anyone has an opinion or an insight. I would greatly appreciate it:

#1 & #2: Missing Red K-7000

#5 Tetris bootleg not saving when changing to FREEPLAY in bonus options

#6 bottom Image squished on Tovis Chassis
 
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hoagtech said:
Im about 6 hours into his videos lol. He definitely owns the K-7000 topic. I wonder if he’s on an arcade forum
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I have no clue if he is but he should be! I love watching his videos, seems like a cool guy. With the red missing, my vote is either the Q(104 or 5 or something, it's been a minute since I've had to work on my k7000's) transistor or leading up to it on the neckboard. If I recall that circuit can get pretty toasty.
 
He is zenomorph on klov

On fixing other people stuff:
Congrats on your first contract.
It this a side business or your main job now? 😝

Monetizing a hobby has always been a no for me: i feel the second i would do it, it would stop to be a hobby (and would become a job). Perhaps that’s my justification for being too afraid to go for it!! I seriously wish you all the best and carefull to not bite bigger than you can chew.
 
I'm about an hour south of Ferndale. K7000s. I find either the red color drive transistor or the red gun itself. If you have a rejuvenator you can check the output of the red in the tube. If you need to borrow a rejuvenator, maybe DM me?
 
Agreed.

With the K7000s it's likely the color drive transistor on the neck board. There is a small possibility it's the tube though. I would ask if anyone noticed the color going out gradually. If it did, then it's a sign of a tube problem.

K7000 are so ubiquitous that you could always have an extra one with you. The owners are usually super impressed when you get the running again cab on the spot. Charge rent for the chassis during the repair period or just outright sell it to them. Then fix the broken one and keep that around for the next time.

Tetris board sounds broken.

Tovis chassis needs new caps.
 
Miayamagata said:
I'm about an hour south of Ferndale. K7000s. I find either the red color drive transistor or the red gun itself. If you have a rejuvenator you can check the output of the red in the tube. If you need to borrow a rejuvenator, maybe DM me?
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Awesome to hear there is another semi local in the thread. I have a B&K 467 but didn't bring it with me. It looking more likely to be an issue with the tube itself. I used Mike's guide on diagnosing color and started with the RGBS connector, Transistors, Bi Polar cap, and then drive transistors on the neck board and everything is testing great. I had to reflow along the JIC but I Don't have much else to troubleshoot on the RGB circuit other than IC1.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_QBUyKzYNs



nem said:
Agreed.

With the K7000s it's likely the color drive transistor on the neck board. There is a small possibility it's the tube though. I would ask if anyone noticed the color going out gradually. If it did, then it's a sign of a tube problem.

K7000 are so ubiquitous that you could always have an extra one with you. The owners are usually super impressed when you get the running again cab on the spot. Charge rent for the chassis during the repair period or just outright sell it to them. Then fix the broken one and keep that around for the next time.

Tetris board sounds broken.

Tovis chassis needs new caps.
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Both Drive transistors on the k7000's tested at a 660 voltage drop and passed.

Too bad about the Tetris board.

If the bottom of the image is squished is there a chance the Vertical Linearity drifted?
 
Almost every WG I've had missing colors on, was a fault of the neck board transistors. It Is possible the tubes have bad guns, Like you said I'd bring the Rejuve with you to test. That Tetris one is.....weird. Were you able to test the voltage on it? I've had a few bootlegs act strange due to low 5V.
 
PASTBLASTER said:
Almost every WG I've had missing colors on, was a fault of the neck board transistors. It Is possible the tubes have bad guns, Like you said I'd bring the Rejuve with you to test. That Tetris one is.....weird. Were you able to test the voltage on it? I've had a few bootlegs act strange due to low 5V.
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That's what the video showed too. It looked like someone before me had reflowed or replaced the Drive transistors. I tested it on diode function and cleared a 660 voltage on the collector and emitter. Unless it's still bad for some reason but I could have sworn that's the pass/fail test. The transistors coming off the RGBS connector go to the IC1 but I'm unsure of how to test if the IC1 is at fault.
 
I don't know about the Tetris bootleg PCB, but the Atari PCB uses a 28C04 eeprom to save settings and high scores. I've seen the eeprom die before, so might be worth checking if the bootleg has one and if so, swapping it out (I think there's an initialising process you have to do when swapping the eeprom out (dip switch setting perhaps)).

In terms of the K7000, you can try shorting the RGB drive transistors to ground to test if the guns are good, e.g. if you short the red drive transistor to ground, the whole screen should go red, confirming the gun is good.
 
xga said:
I don't know about the Tetris bootleg PCB, but the Atari PCB uses a 28C04 eeprom to save settings and high scores. I've seen the eeprom die before, so might be worth checking if the bootleg has one and if so, swapping it out (I think there's an initialising process you have to do when swapping the eeprom out (dip switch setting perhaps)).

In terms of the K7000, you can try shorting the RGB drive transistors to ground to test if the guns are good, e.g. if you short the red drive transistor to ground, the whole screen should go red, confirming the gun is good.
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Do you think that would cause the service menu to freeze? Changing the coin credit settings allowed me to save and go to next menu, but the second i adjusted bonus settings it would completely freeze my cursor and not allow me to press 1P to save.

I spoke with the owner today and he is switching all of his cabs to back to quarters and game card credit swiping so he says it’s a non issue.

I should have ground the neck PCB while I was there. I had the gator clips, but I didn’t think of as the owner asked me to extract the problem chassis. The rejuvenator should be able to tell me what I need to know next week.
 
Probably not, more likely to be a ROM or RAM issue if it's freezing at the exact same spot each time.
 
hoagtech said:
If the bottom of the image is squished is there a chance the Vertical Linearity drifted?
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Considering the difference in brightness it looks like it's already folding over. I doubt you can fix that with just the pot, but honestly, my guess is as good as yours.
 
hoagtech said:
That's what the video showed too. It looked like someone before me had reflowed or replaced the Drive transistors. I tested it on diode function and cleared a 660 voltage on the collector and emitter. Unless it's still bad for some reason but I could have sworn that's the pass/fail test. The transistors coming off the RGBS connector go to the IC1 but I'm unsure of how to test if the IC1 is at fault.
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Desolder the suspect IC1, throw a dipsocket in there and pull a known working IC1 from a different K7000. IC1 is the same between 19" & 25". Internal failures happen to this part in my experience.


hoagtech said:
This is a 19” Happ Vision Pro Tovis chassis.

It doesn’t have the 50/60 hz pot unfortunately.
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Ken Layton did a write up on the WGK7300, which is basically the same monitor as the Happ, Tovis Vision Pro monitor. Per his guide "Top half of picture distorted (may have edge ripples in bad half, too). Cause: bad I302 chip. Solution: Replace I302 vertical output IC (LA7833). This IC should have high resistance (500k or higher) between pin 1 and the mounting tab. If resistance is considerably lower then the IC is bad internally.

Also your picture didn't show a remote board with this chassis, you did have this right?
 

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Plymelk said:
Desolder the suspect IC1, throw a dipsocket in there and pull a known working IC1 from a different K7000. IC1 is the same between 19" & 25". Internal failures happen to this part in my experience.



Ken Layton did a write up on the WGK7300, which is basically the same monitor as the Happ, Tovis Vision Pro monitor. Per his guide "Top half of picture distorted (may have edge ripples in bad half, too). Cause: bad I302 chip. Solution: Replace I302 vertical output IC (LA7833). This IC should have high resistance (500k or higher) between pin 1 and the mounting tab. If resistance is considerably lower then the IC is bad internally.

Also your picture didn't show a remote board with this chassis, you did have this right?
Click to expand...

I will try transplanting the drive transistor. I have few chassis lying around.

the IC is cheap $6. Might as well toss it in there. I am going to deep dive the circuits going into and out of the LA7833 and test the diodes and caps.

I did not have a remote board. There was not one included in the cab. All of the adjustments seem to be on the chassis itself.
 
PASTBLASTER said:
Almost every WG I've had missing colors on, was a fault of the neck board transistors. It Is possible the tubes have bad guns, Like you said I'd bring the Rejuve with you to test. That Tetris one is.....weird. Were you able to test the voltage on it? I've had a few bootlegs act strange due to low 5V.
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Firat thing I check is the tube since it's an easy fix. No sense in changing transistors if the tube is the issue. I always test it in the rejuvenator to rule it out. Then I proceed on repairing the PCB.

Del
 
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