Give it time, lots of delays right now, doesn't mean it's lost.lol well USPS is a week late delivering my MiSTer so...probably lost
Give it time, lots of delays right now, doesn't mean it's lost.lol well USPS is a week late delivering my MiSTer so...probably lost
Mine was 4 weeks late from a few states away, so not really. It eventually showed up and the box was fine.lol well USPS is a week late delivering my MiSTer so...probably lost
Mine was 4 weeks late from a few states away, so not really. It eventually showed up and the box was fine.
Got it yesterday. Had to go to the post office and have them track it down. We haven't gotten mail in ten days. But it's here and works fine. Not to dismantle the entire thing and shoot a build and setup guide lolGive it time, lots of delays right now, doesn't mean it's lost.
If you follow the tutorial to the letter, yes. Nothing special about the JVS-PAC 2, so if you have a HUB it should work . I don't have the usual hats, so I don't know how you would go about setting up audio and video. I find the HDMI dongle superior as it's easy, cheap and you get a proper video DAC with the correct impedance and all the colors vs only 18 bits via a resistor network on the hat.@invzim is the OTB cable and hdmi to vga cable needed of you have the usual hats?
Looks legit. Was playing around with mine yesterday. The Neo Geo core is legit. Granted I ended up playing games I already have on AES so it was redundant as hell but...what are you gonna do? lolThis is the setup I made yesterday to test. Looks a little messy, but works like a charm!
USB hub powers JVS PAC 2.
Audio and video from the HDMI dongle (great Image and sound quality)
Custom made powercable runs the MISTer from the 5v rail of my Sun PSU
I don't know, but I tried the Asteroids core and it looks terrible. I'm not sure if I have anything set wrong but I would have thought a vector game at 4K would look OK, but it's a blurry mess.Is anyone working on old school Atari Star Wars core?
I saw recently this amazing USB flight yoke repro by Glens Retro Show and immediately thought this would be great with Mister.
VGA via hat/io board has 18 bit color, with HDMI you get full 24 bit. With HDMI, you also get a proper DAC and 75-ohm instead of a resistor ladder. And it's cheaper, seems to just work and you can pick them up everywhere.
Is there any core that uses that full color space? Just curiousVGA via hat/io board has 18 bit color, with HDMI you get full 24 bit. With HDMI, you also get a proper DAC and 75-ohm instead of a resistor ladder. And it's cheaper, seems to just work and you can pick them up everywhere.
VGA from I/O board will output pure analog and original RGBS, so always will be the best way on analog world.VGA via hat/io board has 18 bit color, with HDMI you get full 24 bit. With HDMI, you also get a proper DAC and 75-ohm instead of a resistor ladder. And it's cheaper, seems to just work and you can pick them up everywhere.
Not sure what 'pure analog' means, but if you look at the schematics you will se the video signal is generated using 18 resistors hooked up to 18 digital GPIO ports on the DE10-nano. More bits=better analog resolution, i.e. more colors, so I would still recommend using direct_video and the HDMI dongle.VGA from I/O board will output pure analog and original RGBS, so always will be the best way on analog world.
Two games using 3 bits pr color, may not end up being equal as the different bits may represent different voltage levels - so having more bits to approximate the original can't be a bad thing.Is there any core that uses that full color space? Just curious
I don’t know enough about it to question it. So I guess you are right thenTwo games using 3 bits pr color, may not end up being equal as the different bits may represent different voltage levels - so having more bits to approximate the original can't be a bad thing.