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Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun

Hello everyone,

Since we are talking about cables, I have a noob question: I would like to connect my NeoGeo MV-1C to an OSSC using the Minigun. Could I use a 8 Pin MINI DIN to SCART cable without any components (no resistors / capacitors / etc...) to link the minigun to the scart connector of the OSSC? Or should I use some circuitry like the one made by Frank_fjs on the SyncBoost PCB in order to have it working properly?

Thanks!!
 
You only need the scart cable.

The sync boost and VGA connection is useful for some boards that have out of spec sync output, such as Taito F3 etc.
 
Ob1I56l.jpg


Threw together another minigun. This was an old 1.7 revision PCB I had laying in a drawer. That plus a few of the components on hand wasn't enough for me to build an older model obviously, but I did remember purchasing back then a 3D printed enclosure. I felt it was a shame to waste all of that so a very small order to digikey while I was already making a purchase set me strait.

I went with a yellow voltage display to differentiate this from my other 2.1 minigun w/case which is blue:

oMrDYzt.jpg


Sadly I couldn't figure out if they sold yellow or different color LED's that are similar to the blue one listed in the BOM.

These two miniguns combined with a HAS I now have puts me at 3 superguns :S I just love the small footprint and form factor of these. The 3D cases make them feel so sturdy and reliable. I am also becoming quite proficient at soldering in those ths3734's =O
 
I'd like to contribute to this project BOM-wise:
  • TE Connectivity / Raychem 400R0111-16-0 wire (16AWG) cheap at Mouser and good quality
  • Gold plated Molex 45750-3211 rated 250 mating cycles vs 100 for the regular ones
  • KEYSTONE 8257 fork connectors compatible with both MWP-606 and RT-65A
  • 4mm diameter shrink-tube
With this setup I get between 0.01 and 0.04V voltage drop from MV1B to Bad Dudes PCB using ~10" long wires, so setting the PSU (42PP0606) at 5.05V voltage is always perfect and the PSU can work more efficiently.
 
I purchased one of these, pre-assembled, on ebay, and I am enjoying it very much. Thanks!

The quality of the video output is great, IMO. I am really blown away.

I have used it successfully with atomiswave and Neo Geo MVS (MV-1C).

It does not seem to work with my Capcom CPS-1 (89626A-4 DASH) PCB. I get no video output.

Any idea why that might be?

I know the CPS-1 has good video.

Thanks.
 
That's really strange, Minigun works fine with CPS1. Have you tested that specific board with another supergun or cabinet? it should work.
 
I have tried the CPS1 with a cheap Chinese supergun and it works fine.

A beharbros shogun just arrived in the mail today and I will be trying it out soon as well.

From what I was told, the minigun SHOULD work with only the 5V lines connected (if the the board does not need the 12V), but my MV-1C has no sound from the minigun if the 12V is disconnected.

I normally have everything connected, I just removed 12V as a test (because I was told it would work).

Maybe something else is going on with my minigun?

Thanks.
 
pacoarcade said:
That's really strange, Minigun works fine with CPS1. Have you tested that specific board with another supergun or cabinet? it should work.
Click to expand...
I tried a different power supply and it worked with the CPS.

I needed to adjust the voltage on the original power supply. Very simple fix and I should have tried it before asking.

The neo geo and atomiswave working threw me off.

I was hesitant to adjust the voltage and in fact I forgot it was adjustable.
 
@GeorgeSpinner basically all arcade boards use 5v and 12v, and you should adjust the power supply to deliver 5.0v while under load of a given pcb. Every pcb’s power draw will be a little different, so you adjust each time you swap boards. 5v powers the logic, cpu, ram, roms. 12v powers the audio section of many pcbs. The occasional pcb also needs -5v.
 
Probably a dumb question but I assembled a v2.5 and left the headphone jack unpopulated. That particular part is coming just not yet. I had everything else.

I do not get audio from this board. Is this because the headphone jack is missing or do I just need to go back re-re-re-check everything?

Thanks!
 
hernan43 said:
Probably a dumb question but I assembled a v2.5 and left the headphone jack unpopulated. That particular part is coming just not yet. I had everything else.

I do not get audio from this board. Is this because the headphone jack is missing or do I just need to go back re-re-re-check everything?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yes the audio passes through the 1/8 inch audio jack to reach the mini DIN.
 
GeorgeSpinner said:
Raph_friend said:
Some boards won't boot without 12V.
Click to expand...
I understand that. Thanks.
I was told by the person that sold it to me that it should work with only 5v.

I am asking if that's true in the case of the mv-1c?
Click to expand...
That would have been me who told you that, although I thought you were talking about -5v, not 12v. I apologize. An MVS board needs 5v and 12v.

Also, make sure you check the calibration of the minigun voltmeter with a voltmeter. I put in the doc I sent you that I dont calibrate the voltmeter. Usually they are about 0.01 to 0.05 off, but I have found one or two that seem to be more than that. The ones I use have a little pot on the back (you have to unscrew it) that you can adjust. The problem with your CPS board may be that it needs like 5.1v and you had it on v5.0 or v5.1 and it was actually 0.1 or 0.2 lower. Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but setting it to v5.2 should not be a problem. Most chips have no problem with a 20% swing in voltage, but the caps could be old and the lower voltage is dropping too low at some points.
 
RockyArcade said:
GeorgeSpinner said:
Raph_friend said:
Some boards won't boot without 12V.
Click to expand...
I understand that. Thanks.I was told by the person that sold it to me that it should work with only 5v.

I am asking if that's true in the case of the mv-1c?
Click to expand...
That would have been me who told you that, although I thought you were talking about -5v, not 12v. I apologize. An MVS board needs 5v and 12v.
Also, make sure you check the calibration of the minigun voltmeter with a voltmeter. I put in the doc I sent you that I dont calibrate the voltmeter. Usually they are about 0.01 to 0.05 off, but I have found one or two that seem to be more than that. The ones I use have a little pot on the back (you have to unscrew it) that you can adjust. The problem with your CPS board may be that it needs like 5.1v and you had it on v5.0 or v5.1 and it was actually 0.1 or 0.2 lower. Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but setting it to v5.2 should not be a problem. Most chips have no problem with a 20% swing in voltage, but the caps could be old and the lower voltage is dropping too low at some points.
Click to expand...
Hi Rocky,

I read the instructions which said "only the 5v is needed" as that was ALL that was needed. I get it now. Thanks for the clarification.

I read the instructions pretty thoroughly, so I tested the display with my own meter and it is accurate.

I am all set with my CPS board. The minigun works great with it.

Thanks for the support.
 
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