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DARKSOFT LCD troubleshooting / repairs

Darksoft

Darksoft

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Hi all,

this thread is intended on helping you if you have some problems with your LCD.

Basically the LCD is made or 2 parts:

* A custom made PCB that I've done that holds the buttons and the connector that goes to the cart
* A standard LCD display that can be bought off-the-shelves.

In most cases the problem that you'll find is either a broken button or the LCD going broken.

In both cases it's an easy repair if you have some basic solder skills. The most complicated part is desoldering.

BUTTONS
-----------

So if your buttons have gone broken, you can buy them from any of these links:

https://en.maritex.com.pl/switches/tact_switches/tact_switches_vertical_6_0x6_0xh/tacts60h130b280-jl.html [OUT OF AVAILABILITY]
https://www.maritex.com.pl/przelacz...ct_switches_6_0x6_0xh_mm/tacts60h130b160.html
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMsqIr59i2oRciwHtvDYWLRuoFiVVv0We20=

@Mitsurugi-w please post here the ones that people can buy from the US.

LCD
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If your problem is the LCD, then you can buy it from ebay. Just make sure that it's a 2x16 with HD44780 standard. The exact model I buy is: ART016002E31-BIW-R-03, but as long as the dimensions are as in attachment., you should be OK and you can choose another color if you like.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...44780+lcd.TRS0&_nkw=1602+HD44780+lcd&_sacat=0
 

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I've just got a cps2 kit to install for a friend, he has been sitting on this new from the very first batch.
The LCD doesn't work properly the text is not bright white but ghosted as per the pic below.
I have ensured it is seated properly both ends, if I unplug and plug back in whilst live I get garbled text but this in bright white text :S
Is this LCD dead do you think?
Any advice appreciated =]


upload images fast
 
*ehem* have you tried adjusting the LCD contrast with the pot on the main PCB of the kit?
 
Does it get any better if you adjust the contrast pot?

Edit: got distracted and didn't hit post first... ds you win
 
Hi,

My multikit working great, but I was very uncomfortable with the LCD connector facing up and tried to leave it horizontal. I do not know what happened, but from then on I can not change the game anymore and the display does not show any more. Lights up, but nothing appears. I do not know what happened. Can be only the LCD main board (I hope)...

I don't know what I do!!!

I messed up!! I'm very bad and sad about this...

https://youtu.be/GXtOpOzvLqI

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GXtOpOzvLqI" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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Last edited:
fredjss said:
Hi,

My multikit working great, but I was very uncomfortable with the LCD connector facing up and tried to leave it horizontal. I do not know what happened, but from then on I can not change the game anymore and the display does not show any more. Lights up, but nothing appears. I do not know what happened. Can be only the LCD main board (I hope)...

I don't know what I do!!!

I messed up!! I'm very bad and sad about this...

https://youtu.be/GXtOpOzvLqI

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GXtOpOzvLqI" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Click to expand...
You should just desolder that mess and remove the ribbon cable connector and get yourself a proper right-angle connector.

They look like this one:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/amphenol-fci/68021-116HLF/609-3337-ND/1878543
 
Last edited:
Anyone know the model or part number for the contrast pot? I just tried turning it and the white plastic piece popped off.
 
Is there a way to use 2 screens at the same time ? for example if I solder a second one over the first one's 16 connections ? Or simply using a 14 pins connector splitter.
I would like to use one integrated on the CPS2 B-Board when I play in consolized form and a second one I can plug when in Arcade Cabinet.
 
djpweb said:
Is there a way to use 2 screens at the same time ? for example if I solder a second one over the first one's 16 connections ? Or simply using a 14 pins connector splitter.
I would like to use one integrated on the CPS2 B-Board when I play in consolized form and a second one I can plug when in Arcade Cabinet.
Click to expand...
I've never thought of that and honestly dont have the time. I guess that you could try powering both at the same time using a double input ribbon cable, like the one attached but with the right connectors.
 

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No problem, I will first try on a Raspberry through GPIO to see how chained HD44780 react, don't want to take too much risks.
 
Well, color me surprised, it does work :)
Hacked proto, Dupont Wires powered, will do clean add-on board and print it with OSHPark soon.

I won't do it right now since I don't have an arcade cabinet yet, but it's good to know I can plan for it :)

(PS: No contrast pot on the test, which explain the colors)
 

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I want to try to change the LCD module.
Can the module use specifications like 2402 or 4002 other than 1602?
If only HD44780 is compatible, can it be used?

Then, the game full name is displayed without scrolling :)
Does this cause problems with the output? Like a progress bar...

Japanese characters can also be displayed if the LCD supports it?
 
I have an LCD unit that powers up, but is no longer displaying anything. It's not the LCD itself, as I've tested on another unit. I've also tested a different cable to no avail. Please advise. Thanks.
 
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