[FS] JAMMA extension harness

[RGB]

Thank you for your kind words! To answer your questions:

HAS v4.0 -> extension -> PCB:

Button 6 is enabled by default. Nothing to do here.

HAS v4.1 -> extension -> PCB:

No traces to cut here. Switches 4/5/6 must be enabled on the HAS, and switch 6 disabled on the extension end (and depending on the game, button 5, too).

HAS v4.2 -> extension -> PCB:

4 and 5 are toggled via the DIP switch "out of the box", and 6 is toggled as well but two traces need to be cut first as per the instruction in the manual. Just like in the previous versions, switches 4/5/6 must be enabled on the HAS, and switch 6 disabled on the extension end.

Cutting these two traces will not affect the performance and the button 6 outputs can be still disabled via the DIP switch on the HAS.

I know it's a bummer about the CPS2 header and the plexiglass clearance. A cutout in the plexiglass is out of the question because the plexiglass on the edge end of the harness is narrow and would just break, so I think the best solution would be A) longer standoffs, or B) don't use the top plexiglass plate (but I get it, that it kind of defeats the purpose of the plexiglass case).

 

[clintkolodziej]

Thank you for your kind words! To answer your questions:

HAS v4.0 -> extension -> PCB:

Button 6 is enabled by default. Nothing to do here.

HAS v4.1 -> extension -> PCB:

No traces to cut here. Switches 4/5/6 must be enabled on the HAS, and switch 6 disabled on the extension end (and depending on the game, button 5, too).

HAS v4.2 -> extension -> PCB:

4 and 5 are toggled via the DIP switch "out of the box", and 6 is toggled as well but two traces need to be cut first as per the instruction in the manual. Just like in the previous versions, switches 4/5/6 must be enabled on the HAS, and switch 6 disabled on the extension end.

Cutting these two traces will not affect the performance and the button 6 outputs can be still disabled via the DIP switch on the HAS.

I know it's a bummer about the CPS2 header and the plexiglass clearance. A cutout in the plexiglass is out of the question because the plexiglass on the edge end of the harness is narrow and would just break, so I think the best solution would be A) longer standoffs, or B) don't use the top plexiglass plate (but I get it, that it kind of defeats the purpose of the plexiglass case).

Thanks for the clarifications!

Regarding the connector, it’s all good, I think the wires will fit, but I don’t think I’ll need them realistically. I did see that the RECO has the connector more centered so it likely didn’t have the same issue with the plexi breaking.

It sounds like both of my units (v4.0/v4.1) won’t need the CPS2 header anyway but it’s nice to have if needed in the future. My thought is as long as the wires fit it 99% of the time would be plugged into the supergun anyway so there isn’t a huge need to plug/unplug from the extension, I could always just plug/unplug from the supergun.

Thanks again, looking forward to putting these to use and improve my setup!

 

[Zepherino]

Can you list the model of buttons used for Test/Service?

I'm missing those buttons on my extension, and I would like to install some. It looks like the Omron B3F-31XX series I think?

 

[RGB]

Can you list the model of buttons used for Test/Service?

I'm missing those buttons on my extension, and I would like to install some. It looks like the Omron B3F-31XX series I think?

Correct, these are Omron B3F-31XX.

 

[hoagtech]

Ive been meaning to ask lately what needs to be done the Jamma extensions to be used as normal JAMMA harness extensions in my candy cabs?

I have x4 and cant remember the differences between supergun and cab use changes on your device.

I have Sega Aero City with some short OEM Jamma Harnesses and would like to still use your JAMMA harness extensions while feeding Yen.

Thanks ahead of time for the refresher

 

[RGB]

Ive been meaning to ask lately what needs to be done the Jamma extensions to be used as normal JAMMA harness extensions in my candy cabs?

I have x4 and cant remember the differences between supergun and cab use changes on your device.

I have Sega Aero City with some short OEM Jamma Harnesses and would like to still use your JAMMA harness extensions while feeding Yen.

Thanks ahead of time for the refresher

You don't need to do anything specific to use the JAMMA extension in candy cabs, but make sure that the button 6 DIP switch is disabled. If you want to use the HAS dedicated kick harnesses, then follow the option #3:

 

[kazuyajin1080]

I have recenlty got installed a CPS2 header on my jamma extension, however, I am still not getting access to button 6...I thought this would remove having to cut any trace. Can anyone give a recommendation?

 

[RGB]

Could you please tell me more about your setup?

 

[kazuyajin1080]

Could you please tell me more about your setup?

Right now I have the HAS as the main supergun, then use the jammer extender connect the HAS to my cps2, both the CPS2 and the HAS have their proper kick harnesses attached. Yet, when I play I get buttons 1-5, but 6 when I go to the test menu it shows that it is just pressed when it is not. Do I have to mess with the dipswitches on the HAS and the extender because I read some of the answers on here, and I tried turning on and even did one with off buttons 6 for players 1-2, but again to no avail. What am I doing wrong lol

 

[RGB]

I just remembered I posted a solution for this with the HAS version specific guidelines - https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/pre-order-jamma-extension-harness.12191/page-14#post-359910

This may require cutting traces unfortunately.

 

[Adrick]

Hi, do you ship from Europe? I also wanted to know if it works well on nnc arcade machines with jammafier.

 

[hoagtech]

Crazy question..

Do you have any plans of incorporating the RECO into one of these awesome extensions?

Or maybe selling a variant of it with the features?

 

[Robertguy09]

@RGB Do you still sell these jamma extensions? I'd love to buy one!

 

[Adrick]

I got mine a few days ago, excellent user and person, do not hesitate if you are interested in any RGB item.

 

[Joko3]

Cut the traces, enable button 6 on the HAS via DIP, disable button 6 DIP on the JAMMA extension (because otherwise it will short with GND and the buttons will act as constantly pressed).

Edit: fixed. Had to cut deeper. Deeper than it shows in the video below. Leaving original post and video for anybody that runs into the same issue.

I'm having an issue with button 6 being stuck despite having done this: cut the trace on the HAS, enabled button 6 on HAS, and disabled button 6 on the harness. However, both P1 and P2 button 6 are showing as being pressed/held in the CPS2 input test.

I was curious, so I plugged in the HAS without using the cable and had the same problem with both P1 and P2 button 6 behind held. What am I missing here? Did I not cut deep enough or something?

Videos with using harness:

View: https://youtu.be/wlaudBiaIAA

 

[BroadwayJose]

@RGB I have some questions about this product, not sure if these have been addressed yet...

• Is it possible to get a longer length for the extension harness itself? 60cm is a bit short for my intended use case (this would be used in a cabinet with a lot of space inside, rather than the HAS or other supergun).
• The CPS2 kick harness input - am I understanding correctly that the intent is to plug in the harness as a means to push out buttons 4-6 from the JAMMA edge? Basically what I'm looking to do in this case is similar to what the JNX Atlas does, which is to utilize a kick harness as a breakout for boards with buttons 4-6 integrated into the JAMMA edge natively - stuff like MVS, PGM, Atomiswave and CHAMMA style devices. If this serves a similar function, that's great for me because I need an extension along with this for the boards I mention above.

Thanks also for providing the store front website. Looking forward to supporting your great products into the future.

 

[RGB]

Hey, to answer your questions:

1. I only have 60 cm cables right now, quite a few, so re-stocking with longer cables won't happen anytime soon.
2. That's exactly how it works, additionally it allows you to use a variety of HAS-dedicated kick harnesses with it.

The dip switch is responsible for enabling button 4, 5, and 6 outputs through the JAMMA connector.

 

[BroadwayJose]

Much appreciated for the info @RGB

Really hope you're able to offer the longer length harness soon. Everything else is spot on for my needs.

 

[clintkolodziej]

Thank you for your kind words! To answer your questions:

HAS v4.0 -> extension -> PCB:

Button 6 is enabled by default. Nothing to do here.

HAS v4.1 -> extension -> PCB:

No traces to cut here. Switches 4/5/6 must be enabled on the HAS, and switch 6 disabled on the extension end (and depending on the game, button 5, too).

HAS v4.2 -> extension -> PCB:

4 and 5 are toggled via the DIP switch "out of the box", and 6 is toggled as well but two traces need to be cut first as per the instruction in the manual. Just like in the previous versions, switches 4/5/6 must be enabled on the HAS, and switch 6 disabled on the extension end.

Cutting these two traces will not affect the performance and the button 6 outputs can be still disabled via the DIP switch on the HAS.

I know it's a bummer about the CPS2 header and the plexiglass clearance. A cutout in the plexiglass is out of the question because the plexiglass on the edge end of the harness is narrow and would just break, so I think the best solution would be A) longer standoffs, or B) don't use the top plexiglass plate (but I get it, that it kind of defeats the purpose of the plexiglass case).

Just a heads up if anyone else runs into an issue with P1B6 and P2B6 not working after following the quoted instructions from RGB. Make sure you have the cable itself plugged in correctly. I spent way too long yesterday with a multimeter wondering why button 6 wasn't working on both my HAS v4.0 and v4.1 using my CPS1 and CPS3 before I noticed I had plugged the cable in backwards when I last reorganized my test bench.

The short of it, on the HAS-side, the 4 empty holes on the connector go on the RIGHT side, on the PCB-side the 4 empty holes go on the LEFT side. I attached some photos as well to make sure it's clear.

Thanks to RGB for designing these so a dumb move like this doesn't seem to harm anything. The last 4 pins unused pins are not connected, so if you reverse the cable you just lose the 6 buttons and a couple ground pins.

Hopefully that helps, I did see a number of people posting about button 6 not working, figure it's worth checking this out as well before assuming (like I did) that something is wrong with your HAS!

 

[djsheep]

Had the same issue @clintkolodziej - then I remembered the sticker on the wrapping talking about the gold dot on the connector housing needing to be in the right place.

Originally I thought that I didn’t cut the trace deep enough on the HAS! It’s well deep now