Hey there!
I’ve been asking n00bie questions all over the place the past few months, in my quest to get my F-Zero wheel up and running on TriForce.
Rather than try and bother people with PMs, I thought I’d try and detail my hopes and dreams here!
While I’m new to all this, I have managed to recently restore and upgrade a Naomi Universal Cabinet to support working N1, N2, TriForce(both types), Chihiro Type 3 and Lindbergh Yellow, was well as fitting and wiring up full 2-Player controls and Gunboard. I feel like I now have enough of an understanding to attempt this next build, but understand I need to learn a lot more along the way!
My next challenge is to get my legit F-Zero AX arcade wheel up and running. I’m the proud owner of two J-SHIP boards, and have the following gear that I’m trying to pull all this together with:
- SEGA Potentiometer, with gear from Initial D (see photo)
- 270-degree Steering Wheel bracket (see photo)
- SEGA Force Feedback Board (although not sure I need this with the F-Zero AX ‘fixed’ ROM
- Brand new TriForce Type 3 (Type 1 on standby I’d needed too!)
- Genuine FZR-2500 wheel (NOS!)
- pedals and many wires!
Now, I know the wheel isn’t first party, but I’m looking for something I can use potentially on a stand in from on my Naomi, or even as seated setup separate to it.
My vague plan right now is to :
1 - Swap the Potentiometer that came with the wheel out for the SEGA one. I was told it’s legit-sega or die here!
2 - Hook the wheel unit with the original/standard wheel still attached to test the analog inputs and confirm I can get into the game with or without the FFB
3 - Hook up the digital wires from the F-Zero wheel, to test that all those extra cool features work
4 - Somehow swap the wheel so it’s mounted in place of the other wheel the setup case with
5 -Build my custom setup/ stand around it I inclusing the original start and view change plate / components plus the game cube card and magnetic card reader. I’ve even found NOS stickers to go on those original plates, and think I can get this looking really nice!
So, where does my logic fail me here - am I missing something pretty big here, that will stop the game from booting or being played well?
Will the JVS-Helper help me out here, or don’t I need it?
I think the real F-Zero AX cab was less than 270 degrees, but I can adapt this to match what it should be.
Please pull / pick this apart, and tell me where I’m going wrong with this plan. Teach me something, and help me get to play this awesome game with the real wheel !
Thanks for your time!
I’ve been asking n00bie questions all over the place the past few months, in my quest to get my F-Zero wheel up and running on TriForce.
Rather than try and bother people with PMs, I thought I’d try and detail my hopes and dreams here!
While I’m new to all this, I have managed to recently restore and upgrade a Naomi Universal Cabinet to support working N1, N2, TriForce(both types), Chihiro Type 3 and Lindbergh Yellow, was well as fitting and wiring up full 2-Player controls and Gunboard. I feel like I now have enough of an understanding to attempt this next build, but understand I need to learn a lot more along the way!
My next challenge is to get my legit F-Zero AX arcade wheel up and running. I’m the proud owner of two J-SHIP boards, and have the following gear that I’m trying to pull all this together with:
- SEGA Potentiometer, with gear from Initial D (see photo)
- 270-degree Steering Wheel bracket (see photo)
- SEGA Force Feedback Board (although not sure I need this with the F-Zero AX ‘fixed’ ROM
- Brand new TriForce Type 3 (Type 1 on standby I’d needed too!)
- Genuine FZR-2500 wheel (NOS!)
- pedals and many wires!
Now, I know the wheel isn’t first party, but I’m looking for something I can use potentially on a stand in from on my Naomi, or even as seated setup separate to it.
My vague plan right now is to :
1 - Swap the Potentiometer that came with the wheel out for the SEGA one. I was told it’s legit-sega or die here!
2 - Hook the wheel unit with the original/standard wheel still attached to test the analog inputs and confirm I can get into the game with or without the FFB
3 - Hook up the digital wires from the F-Zero wheel, to test that all those extra cool features work
4 - Somehow swap the wheel so it’s mounted in place of the other wheel the setup case with
5 -Build my custom setup/ stand around it I inclusing the original start and view change plate / components plus the game cube card and magnetic card reader. I’ve even found NOS stickers to go on those original plates, and think I can get this looking really nice!
So, where does my logic fail me here - am I missing something pretty big here, that will stop the game from booting or being played well?
Will the JVS-Helper help me out here, or don’t I need it?
I think the real F-Zero AX cab was less than 270 degrees, but I can adapt this to match what it should be.
Please pull / pick this apart, and tell me where I’m going wrong with this plan. Teach me something, and help me get to play this awesome game with the real wheel !
Thanks for your time!
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