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Distorted sound problem

1,2,3,4 and 5,6,8,9 determine the type of ROMs you're using for sound (JEDEC vs non JEDEC) and the sound problem you're having does sound like it could be related to that.

If jumper 5 isn't making a good connection then I would clean up the pad with braid and get rid of your current solder, clean the area with isoprop and resolder with flux

I would also try with another A board to rule out any issues there and reseat the board checking for broken pins and using the clips
 
Tried a different A Board and still the same issue.

Also tried a complete resolder and same thing again.


The only thing I can try now is another B Board if I'm correct? But I don't think I have another Rev 7 G.. :(
 
Where are you located? I saw someone said you were in Aussie land but where in oz?
 
I'm in Melbourne. Are you or anyone else down this way that could help me? I've spent hours on this and keep coming to the same result.

Just on a side note... Trawling through the forum I found this https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?threads/sound-issue.2801/page-1

This guy had a problem of incorrect sounds. Mine is the correct sounds but bad sounds. But he said he had a rev 7 Gpal board that had different jumpers to the video and he set them to the video to start with. Then he said he reset the jumpers back to what they were originally, with OOOO OO on the first six, and it fixed the problem. Do the jumpers HAVE to be set the same was as the instruction video? If I reset the jumpers to what they were originally, could that fix it?
 
It's possible the jumpers were hardwired from the factory for whatever reason but they should be set as per the video.

They should either be set to O-S-S-O or S-O-O-S

O-O-O-O means that pin 1 is set to neither ground nor A16 which is just weird. Capcom certainly did plenty of weird things back in the day

l_oliviera actually suggested that the jumpers in the sound section don't matter as long as no 2 of the same section are closed.

That would explain why it worked with all jumpers open but the fact it's not suggests that something is closed that should be open

I'm located in Queensland, not sure if there's anyone in Victoria
 
Ok so I have an update...

I have desosldered all jumpers from 1 - 13. It looks like from 1 - 6 were already shorted factory. I didn't see the small connection in the cut on the pad previously, but now I can, so I shorted those for no reason :(

So after a multimeter test... all the pads are as they should be factory set the same as the installation instruction video - except 9 and 11. They were originally open and are open now that I have removed the solder that I put earlier.

Strangely enough.. the kit works with these jumper settings, but with the same sound issue - scratchy bad sound.. nothing has changed.


So are jumpers 1 - 13 entirely redundant? and have no effect at all? or is it only 1 - 6 that have no purpose? Because I'm wondering.... is it possible the jumpers causing this problem are jumpers 9 and 11, as these are factory open. I did short them on installation (as per instruction video), and I did multimeter check and it checked out as shorted, but could it have been a bad solder? Because I find it suspicious I am getting the exact same problem with these jumpers open as I was when I had them closed. These are the only two jumpers which are now open that shouldn't be.

Any advice would be great. I'm reluctant to resolder and short these again to test until I can get some advice on this.
 
Without seeing it it's difficult to tell. 1-6 wouldn't have all been shorted but several would have been.

One of 2 of each set determines either the high address pin being connected or grounded depending on the type off EPROM being used.

The kit will work regardless if 9 and 11 are open because these are Q Sound (music) and irrelevant to the sound effects issue you're having.

You really need to get someone who has set one of these up before to have a look and see if they can see what's wrong.

There may be a cut trace somewhere (this happens sometimes when trying to cut the factory jumpers) or the settings may still be wrong but you can't see where

If you've tried another A board and tried another cab/supergun to confirm these aren't the issue it's time to get it looked at
 
Yes I'm basically lost to it now. No idea where to go from here.

I've tried 2 A boards. Tried it on 2 different cabs. same result.

desoldered the jumpers and resoldered.. same result either way.

Have reinstalled the kit probably 10 times at least now.

Confirmed no bent pins anywhere. literally checked every pin under a magnifier.

Can't see any broken traces


Do you know which jumper effects the sound effects or which area of the board would cause a problem like this? It's almost like certain frequencies are bad... like the bass or something. The music and sound play correctly and are all there.. but they just sound bad like FM radio style. I'm losing hope that it is jumper related now.... but what do jumpers 14 - 29 do? I never touched those as they were already set as they should be.

Is anyone on this forum in Melbourne? I'm running out of ideas and need someone's help who is more of an expert than me. I'm a novice at this if anything...
 
I was looking on line at a list someone had made of CPS2 PAL and Jumper settings.

According to this list MSHVSSF is supposed to be PAL F. Mine is a PAL G. Did they make different games of the same name with different PAL? Could the problem I'm having have something to do with this? Do I need to lift the leg on this?
 
I assumed you had replaced the PAL with a G PAL (a lot of people order one of these with the kit)

My bad for assuming! Yes you most definitely need to pull the leg and solder it if it's an F PAL - there is a point on the multi kit for exactly this purpose

Or replace it with a G PAL and no need to solder the pin. I can send you a G PAL if you prefer.
 
Oh, no it's definitely a G already on there. Says G on the chip. But could it be an issue with that? because on this list I read regarding that chip... it says MSHVSSF is supposed to be an F?? but mine is already a G. What I'm wondering is could someone have done a shoddy replacement on the chip or could this be completely normal that MSHVSSF is factory fitted with a G PAL?

@xodaraP I'm getting to the point now where I'm wondering if I can send you the whole thing to take a look at. More than happy to pay for postage + your time if you can help me.
 
My MvSF had a G PAL from the factory as well which is why I assumed you had a G PAL - could be the list is wrong or that an early revision used F then it was changed to G?

Wouldn't be causing the issues you're having though as a rev 7 board is designed to operate with a G PAL without modification

I'm happy to have a look but I do have a bit here at the moment I'm working through. Let me know once you're sure you've checked everything and I'll give you my details to send it up, might be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to sort it out though
 
Sorry to necro, but I'm having a similar problem. Was this issue ever resolved?
 
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