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Distorted sound problem

Maybe you can test if the sound is stil distorded with a rca to jack cable and a headphone through the a board rca

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I've tried an Astro City cabinet and the same thing... so definitely the board and not the cab.

I am in Melbourne, Australia. Is there anyone here that can help me with this? Because, I have tried everything I can possibly think of. I'm worried the Kit has a problem with it..
 
I''ll have to get in contact with him.

I checked that guide, and with sound issues the only troubleshoot it has is to do with the wire from the PAL, which I don't need because I have the Rev 7 with G. So the guide doesn't specify much about what my issue could be. :(


On the surface I'm thinking it's one of the following -

Jumper problem that I am not picking up on
B Board has a problem
Darksoft Kit has a problem.

I cannot for the life of me think of anything else it has possibly be. I've eliminated every other possibility I can think of to do with re install, SD cards, different jamma set ups, no bent pins, etc.

Hopefully @xodaraP can help me..
 
Was the sound working on this b board before your install? It’s a pain but if I was totally stuck I would reinstall the original roms (or a Phoenix or avalaunch set) to see if it was the multi kit or my B board. I know it’s not fun to keep pulling that apart so use it as last resort.

Check the audio right out of the cps2 using an rca cable like @Yagamisan suggested above. I bet it’s still corrupted but you can rule out your cab / amp / speakers that way.

Anyway it’s not a bad idea to confirm voltages, sounds like you have a multimeter already. Audio would probably be the 12v rail but it’s probably fine even if it’s not exactly 12v. I don’t think this is a voltage issue though.
 
ekorz said:
Was the sound working on this b board before your install? It’s a pain but if I was totally stuck I would reinstall the original roms (or a Phoenix or avalaunch set) to see if it was the multi kit or my B board. I know it’s not fun to keep pulling that apart so use it as last resort.

Check the audio right out of the cps2 using an rca cable like @Yagamisan suggested above. I bet it’s still corrupted but you can rule out your cab / amp / speakers that way.

Anyway it’s not a bad idea to confirm voltages, sounds like you have a multimeter already. Audio would probably be the 12v rail but it’s probably fine even if it’s not exactly 12v. I don’t think this is a voltage issue though.
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The B Board has been dead for about 2 years. It was one I messed up a battery change on by not having a good solder on the new battery, and accidentally killed it. Sound had no issue when the board was working back then.

Could the fact I originally killed it have caused the board to go bad in some way re sound?

I have other boards. Most are original battery though, so I'm not using those. I have a few phoenix boards, so I could probably try it on one of those? Or move the phoenix roms to this board to see if the sound issue is still there.

i've tried two different cabs with the same result, so I don't think it's cab related.


I cannot find anyone who has had this exact problem... So I feel like I'm shooting in the dark.
 
I don't think your battery exchange hurt the sound. But stuff dies, even in storage, or during installation, so who knows what caused this issue? I'm just saying that right now the issue isn't isolated to the B board or the multi, so you could separate them and help narrow things down. You could try another Gal too but I think that's probably fine.

So yes, you could try to put roms back on that B board and prove that it isn't the problem, or you could take the mutli and put it on another board. In case you're not up to speed, there's no real 'killing' of boards anymore. We can restore keys to dead boards, and there's also this nifty guy: InfiniKey-CPS2
 
I've had similar sound issues when the A and B aren't seated correctly or there is a bent pin

I've also had similar issues when there is a jumper wire installed for the PAL on a rev 7 board that doesn't need one

If we can get some photos that will help :)
 
xodaraP said:
I've had similar sound issues when the A and B aren't seated correctly or there is a bent pin

I've also had similar issues when there is a jumper wire installed for the PAL on a rev 7 board that doesn't need one

If we can get some photos that will help :)


I will take pics.


Just a question in the meantime... I saw another thread where you @xodaraP replied that Rev 7 boards don't need jumpers changed. The board I'm using is a Rev 7 and the jumpers were not correct. Is that normal? Should I have left the jumpers ass they were?
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What was the donor game? It's extremely uncommon for a rev 7 board to be running a game that doesn't use the correct jumpers already but not unheard of
 
I just went back and checked and saw it was a MSHvSF. My donor board is also a rev 7 MSHvSF - jumpers shouldn't have needed changing and I suspect this is likely your issue.
 
Ok this does sound like the problem. But the first 6 jumpers were all open. Correct setting should be closed, open, open, closed, closed, open right? Or were they to remain open?
 
Yes that could be it as I think the first jumpers are for audio.

But what did you check them against when you said all where correct?
 
Not to sound silly, but you're not getting open and closed jumpers confused, and inadvertently doing it in reverse?
 
Take a photo of all the jumper blocks on the board and we can work this out :)
 
Frank_fjs said:
Not to sound silly, but you're not getting open and closed jumpers confused, and inadvertently doing it in reverse?
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I followed that original instruction video. Here are pics. I put the solder blob on 1, 4, 5, and I think 9 and 11. The rest were already set is this the correct set up or are rev 7 boards different?
 
Jumpers are set based on game requirements, nothing to do with revision

They determine the size of the ROMs on the board

MSHvSF uses the same size ROM settings as you want for the multi, so you shouldn't have changed any jumpers

You will need to meter out what you have now against what they should be to determine what is closed that should be open or vice versa - or if you can take photos of your jumpers I can probably tell you from that
 
just metered all and they all check in good.

What I did notice is that jp5 seems to meter weaker than the others. It's not a continuous beep and sometimes nothing at all until I get the multimeter at the perfect spot. Could that be a poor connection causing the problem or unlikely?
 
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