This has been working for me. But not everyone will want to use hot glue or epoxy.
Custom Taito Vewlix Sub Panel
Custom Taito Vewlix Sub Panel
- Thread starter jermz1
- Start date
I just got two of these beauties but since the Vewlix is wired for 3.5mm audio cable, has anyone found a compatible alternative controller? I'd like to avoid buying a bunch of conversion cables and adding any more wiring in my already messy cab : )
~Paik
~Paik
I haven't really looked, but I would love a controller that connects using just a single 3.5mm audio cable directly into the amp on the Vewlix. The cables necessary to use the one in this thread do add a fair amount of wires, and yep, it was a mess in the Vewlix before that. If anybody finds anything, it would be awesome if you could post it here! 
I was thinking about using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hzaI haven't really looked, but I would love a controller that connects using just a single 3.5mm audio cable directly into the amp on the Vewlix. The cables necessary to use the one in this thread do add a fair amount of wires, and yep, it was a mess in the Vewlix before that. If anybody finds anything, it would be awesome if you could post it here!
or this: https://www.amazon.com/ICQUANZX-Con...&qid=1610650527&sprefix=dreft&sr=8-20&x=0&y=0
But frankly, I didn't want to spend $20 just to try out. The first one you might not need to de-case and you could replace the knob with a nicer one. The second one in particular, you would have to de-case and based on the photos, it looks like you'd have to remove the bottom padding which would void any kind of return you could do.
I ended up just getting the one recommended in the first post for now for my first panel. Maybe I'll try another solution in my second.
~Paik
I wanted to report back that OCD got the best of me and I tried out this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1815B191TKQXZ&psc=1I haven't really looked, but I would love a controller that connects using just a single 3.5mm audio cable directly into the amp on the Vewlix. The cables necessary to use the one in this thread do add a fair amount of wires, and yep, it was a mess in the Vewlix before that. If anybody finds anything, it would be awesome if you could post it here!
I had to de-case and also widen the hole so the nut would fit (widened a little on the top side only enough to get the nut to sit in. I'm happier with this over the original solution since it's substantially smaller both with and without the case and of course it doesn't require adapters for the 3.5mm (e.g., if you have a Vewlix). I had to order some longer 3.5mm audio cables which I'm waiting on now and a second volume controller for my second Vewlix.
Also, I didn't want to mount the sub-panel with any screws showing so I went with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNM7KXG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The M5x6mm were perfect! The top now doesn't have any screws and is flat/low profile. Also the black is nice. The only thing I want to add are some logos inside the buttons for Touchpad/Home/Start (or maybe I'll keep it clean, not sure yet).
~Paik
If you need some and don't want to pay $10 for a whole box that you'll never use, hit me up and I can sell you one of my sets of 4 for like $2+shipping.
~Paik
UNCONKABLE!!!!
Beginner
Hi All, I bought my first Taito Vewlix F cab recently, and in searching for custom panel solutions, found this amazing thread. Thank you all for doing some amazing work to improve the quality of the cab and make the usability much better. Special thanks to jermz1 for being willing to get me one of these custom panels extremely late in the game.
Paik4Life, I am interested in trying out your alternate solution, and love your setup, especially with how clean it looks and due to the fact that I also have a red cab. Do you have any extra flat bolts to sell?
I am a complete novice here, but would anyone mind explaining how to physically connect this setup to be able to the original cab audio components itself? Also, how does the volume controller stay attached? Is there something connecting it to the bottom of the custom panel, is the grommet holding everything up, or is the knob itself carrying the weight?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Paik4Life, I am interested in trying out your alternate solution, and love your setup, especially with how clean it looks and due to the fact that I also have a red cab. Do you have any extra flat bolts to sell?
I am a complete novice here, but would anyone mind explaining how to physically connect this setup to be able to the original cab audio components itself? Also, how does the volume controller stay attached? Is there something connecting it to the bottom of the custom panel, is the grommet holding everything up, or is the knob itself carrying the weight?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Yeah hit me up for a set of screws.
The volume controller has a nut that you use to mount to the sub panel. The reason I went with the one I linked for my cab is that it uses 3.5mm audio jack which is stock for Vewlix. So you would need to use an HDMI audio extractor that outputs 3.5mm, that would lease to the input of the volume controller and then output would go to the Vewlix amp.
Hope that helps.
I use my Vewlix as a mame pc cabinet. If anyone ever figures out how to fix the randomly assigned p1 and p2 usb issue im all ears. Whenever I boot up my PC it will make p2 side p1 and vice versa. That is because PC's randomly assign usb's on boot. I've tried a few methods online but they were all very involved and/or outdated.
UNCONKABLE!!!!
Beginner
Thanks Paik4Life. Your explanation was great. DM sent regarding the screws!
Hello,
I have exactly the same problem, if you ever find the solution it is very welcome.
J
jassin000
And you'll always have this problem so long as your HID (ie USB game pads) devices are seperate.
I recommend a JPAC or a JVSPAC depending on your needs.
The idea here is to the PC the PAC will be seen as a single keyboard, the keys assignments will never change unless you change them (ie no more "who ever presses a button first is first player" bullshit).
I think I read that post when I was researching the topic long ago but totally forgot about it or it didn't work for me.
I will try again when I get time and report back if it works. Will make my chewlix mame cabinet more enjoyable. Right now just keeping p2 usb unplugged and I plug it in once the system fires up. Causes issues in MAME though.
J
jassin000
That post isn't a solution at all... It only "works" some of the time because the PC is seeing one HID device clearly before the other.
You can NEVER truly fix this problem as its baked into the Windows HAL. First HID gamepad it detects is player one PERIOD (regardless of USB port).
Stop using separate HID gamepads and get a single PAC PCB if you'd like a real solution.
I have a mame windows x64 pc running Launchbox's Bigbox front end. It is connected via two USB to 2x brooks universal fighting boards.
Are you saying there is no real way to get them to remain static?
I really don't wanna invest in another solution, but if something else is 100% easy to setup and reliable I could always use those brook boards elsewhere.
J
jassin000
Correct, first USB device it detects is always player one regardless of port.
Well don't feel too bad... You can use the Brooks for PS4/5/XB1 and some other stuff I believe.
It's just not the best control option for a Windows based PC because of how the HAL blindly assigns based on detection.
You could have similar issues even with a USB based PAC IF you connected two of them at the same time.
The reason why it works is the device identifies itself as a single USB keyboard, MAME retains the key mappings so they remain static.
AND and IF you want a 4-player setup/cab use this little guy...
It still identifies as a single keyboard, so all 4 player buttons/keys remain static.
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So if it detects the JPAC as a keyboard, can I still use an actual keyboard? It's a pc, I still have to run updates on windows and bigbox and update my library. I am using a wireless usb keyboard now.
