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Yeah, better forget CW2500 epoxy overcoat that some people use to repair pads, good old JB Weld actually works better. While CW is said to stand 600F = 315C max minute, its meant for protective layer and can get jelly like even when soldering with under 300C, not holding pads so well, while JB Weld can take 315C for 10 minutes and holds better. And it does cure relatively fast if you can keep the pcb in about 50C. Curing it too fast makes it brittle. Hot plate is your friend there. Or oven, but don't tell your wife you are baking pcb :D

For quick repairs, loctite super glue precision can be used if you can hold the pad still while soldering. It will stick again after cooling and can hold about 150C in use.
 
Hi guys,
I have an a-board with no sound, the volume is tuck at 0 and using the Switch buttons have no effect on sound.
There are no bad traces, and sound used to work fine on this a-board.
I changed the LS374 in 2N, 2P, 2R, 2S, 3S and 4S, but no result :(
My next step is to change the LS245 in 5S.

My questions :
Should I replace the Toshiba TC9185P ?
Is there another IC that can be culprit ?

Thanks 😊
 
Did you try powering on the game with the volume down button held down?

That will reset it and can sometimes fix the stuck volume bar issue.
 
Yes, did it with button UP and Button Down
Also checked if the volume buttons were OK (and Yes, they are ok)
 
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I would look at replacing the supercap - this can cause volume to get stuck
 
Thanks for the tip, changed the supercap in position CC18 but no change :( still the same issue, sound level stuck at 0
 
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