That is very unusual. Which microSD are you using? Can you post a picture? Do you write it from a PC or a Mac?
I just happen to have a 400gb SDHC Sandisk and unfortunately it does the exact same thing.I don't know much about that brand. Do you have a Samsung or SanDisk SDHC bought from a trusted source? If you do just copy 2-3 games to rule that out as the source of the problem.
SDHC maximum capacity is 32gb. You’re looking at SDXC if it’s 400gbI just happen to have a 400gb SDHC Sandisk and unfortunately it does the exact same thing.
Oops. I didn't read the packaging completely. GUIFormat worked though and shows FAT32 and Mutli read the MicroSD to allow me to change games. Erased and Flashed the games correctly per the LCD readout. Anyways, I searched elsewhere and I did find an 8GB Sandisk MicrsoSD. Same results.SDHC maximum capacity is 32gb. You’re looking at SDXC if it’s 400gb
Yes, I screwed up the PAL install but ultimately it was my A board that needed replacing.Good Afternoon. I just finished my install of the mutli and am having the same issue except I did swap the PAL on the A board, but get the same results as GeorgeSpinner.
I have done everything as pointed above (black screen, no video/sound, flashes game correctly, voltage level is good at 5.03v, LCD lets me select games). C board was modified so I just moved the bodged wire to ground and confirmed they went to ground (pin 45 and 46 to 41).
A board was confirmed to work as I had Captain Commando B board running prior to install.
Any suggestions on where to start looking?
I will revert the install back to using Captain Commando to see if the A board got borked, but do I need to re-bodge the wire back to where it was to get it running again?
Don't have another A board to test, nor a C board. Just have what I have at the moment unfortunately. If there are no other things I can check/test, I'll just have to send my board to a friend to see if he can test.Good info @GeorgeSpinner
Maybe thats the issue that @raynex has. Maybe he can try with a different A board if he has one.
OH SNAP. Glad I just blew up some ribbon cable and not the entire A-board and Multi...The board is soldered in the wrong place it is supposed to be positioned further down ie the row of empty holes goes where the switch pins you have soldered are and the edge of the adapter you have soldered should be soldered to the row of pins below it hope this makes sense
OH SNAP. Glad I just blew up some ribbon cable and not the entire A-board and Multi...
The ribbon cable was about to catch fire? Holy $#!T man...OH SNAP. Glad I just blew up some ribbon cable and not the entire A-board and Multi...
Zoom in on the ribbon cable pic. I think it did catch fire!The ribbon cable was about to catch fire? Holy $#!T man...
I see. Definitely some char on there.Zoom in on the ribbon cable pic. I think it did catch fire!
@mathewbeall Thank you! I actually had pics from ShootTheCore as reference, but somehow missed this obvious difference.
After a round of desoldering and re-soldering, I now have the remote board in the right spot. I'll test it out tomorrow.
Mostly, yes, except for the dipswitches and games occasionally not starting successfully (screen full of artifacts, no audio) maybe 1/4 times. If the unreliability continues after the fixed remote placement, and nothing else is obviously wrong, I might recap the A-board.I see. Definitely some char on there.
That could have been very bad.
Everything SEEMS to be performing OK?