Changing a 2 pronged power cable for a 3 prong

[Yubm12]

I got a SNK Candy 26 and every once and a while,I get a buzz off it. It only has a 2 prong power cable abs I’m wondering how to swap it out for a grounded 3 prong cable. Also wondering if that will fix my issue abs how to go shoot actually doing the work. Here’s what the power supply looks like

 

[krmnnghia]

Here you go! Look at the very bottom of that page at the diagram. Basically all the main metal components(Monitor frame, CP, Iso if present, coin door) can get tied to one location and then to the green line on your new power wire.

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/acwiring.html

 

[Yubm12]

Here you go! Look at the very bottom of that page at the diagram. Basically all the main metal components(Monitor frame, CP, Iso if present, coin door) can get tied to one location and then to the green line on your new power wire.

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/acwiring.html

Thanks for the doc - looking at where the current cable connects in my cab, Is the long screw to the left of the cord where I should connect the ground to? Or do I need to add an AC Line Filter?

 

[dewmansnk]

Yes, you want to connect the AC ground to that long screw to the left of the cord. You cab appears to have a line filter already, that is the small silver box with the 2 wires going in and the 2 white wires going out.

It looks like the use of a line filter on an ungrounded cab is what is causing the frame to energize. You will have 120VAC across the 2 Cy capacitors. If the PE (Potential Earth) is not connected to ground then you will have voltage at the PE point - which is connected to the cab body. I think when I ran into a similar issue I was reading ~40VAC from the metal cab body to ground.

I am a fan of leaving the OEM cord unmodified and running a 2nd 'ground only' cord. It would look something like a 3-prong plug where only the ground pin was connected and that would attach to the long-bolt on the cab (from the outside)

 

[Yubm12]

I’m intrigued by your comment of keeping the OEM cord, but don’t fully understand what you are proposing. Would the cab have 2 power cords?

 

[dewmansnk]

Yeah, so leave the original power cord untouched.

Get a new plug
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-3-Wire-Plug-Yellow-R10-515PV-0YL/309610976

Get some stranded ground wire
https://www.amazon.com/MTW-MACHINE-TOOL-PRIMARY-STRANDED/dp/B07T7LSGM5/

Wire only the ground pin to the green wire, then crimp a ring-lug on the side that will connect to the cab. The original plug will still be 2 pin and provide the AC line and AC neutral. The new 2nd power cord will only have the ground and will ground the metal body of the cab to earth ground.

 

[Yubm12]

So do I plug both cords in?

 

[dewmansnk]

Yes, plug in both cords. The OEM cord will provide power, the new 2nd cord will provide only ground. Both cords need to be plugged in.

 

[tiff_lee]

Edit: Yeah disregard.

In the second picture where is that power lead connecting to it's hard to tell, in the first two pictures there seems to be another part fitted to the rear of the cab and in the final one there is only the small centre panel.

can't you remove that and swap out for a 3 core cable power lead and connect the earth to that stud on the rear?

Edit Edit: Nvm now I get it , the panel in the third picture is actually on the opposite side of the cabs to the first two, no wonder I couldnt make sense of it.

 

[nem]

I'm missing something here. That sounds fucking dangerous. So you would have a live male end just dangling there?

Never, ever make male to male power cables.

 

[tiff_lee]

I'm missing something here. That sounds fucking dangerous. So you would have a live male end just dangling there?

Never, ever make male to male power cables.

No you're not I was half asleep and just realised what was going on, that's actually a loop out socket and there is another power lead already connected.

 

[stj]

your gonna hate me for saying this, but it's technically correct.
you should remove the cord and cord-grip which will leave a 16mm or 20mm hole,
then dremel it out and fit an IEC inlet connector.
maybe even one with an integrated fuseholder.