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Cave CV1000-D bootlegs a hoy

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The boots should work with the apparent multi since they're 1:1 with original PCBs (rewrite also outright stated this in another thread).

I think Link (the maker of these boots) has 1000B games available now. It's probably worth holding off at this point until the "multi" materializes.

Wouldn't be surprised if Link just takes whatever gets released and makes a multi himself LOL.
 
culkicoa said:
It's still miles better than the sh3 sound in emulation
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there is no issues with YMZ770 emulation, but missing analogue part simulation (amplifier with low pass filter), which hides how awful sound quality in CV1K games. simply configure low pass in your sound card driver (or install some 3rd party tool) and you'll get about same result as real PCB.
 
MetalliC said:
there is no issues with YMZ770 emulation, but missing analogue part simulation (amplifier with low pass filter), which hides how awful sound quality in CV1K games. simply configure low pass in your sound card driver (or install some 3rd party tool) and you'll get about same result as real PCB.
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Oo!!! Man, I just searched for that and it's the same thing that seems to happens for some dosbox games too?
Damnn thanks you so much for enlightening me on this topic, I don't think I could have ever got this by myself. You're making it look so simple it's almost stupid and yet... it was deeply needed :jimlad:
In any case really happy to be corrected on this matter, I'll try to look into it with 3rd party tools then.
 
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culkicoa said:
Oo!!! Man, I just searched for that and it's the same thing that seems to happens for some dosbox games too?
Damnn thanks you so much for enlightening me on this topic
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np, welcome
it is common issue with many other arcade platforms/games as well, so even if sound chip(s) emulation (nearly) perfect it sounds quite different compared to real thing. modern MAME attempts to simulate that, but for quite small number of games, where is mostly simple RC-filters.

as of Yamaha's MP2/AMM player chips - for sure it's not perfect in case of IGS PGM2, which uses later model YMZ774 with digital equalizer, which is not emulated atm.
 
I would also like to see if they are just repurposed D boards or if they are actually B boards that they have gotten the designs for
 
Kuro copy:
 

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@Monouchi thanks for sharing, can you share detailed picture of the other side of the PCB as well ?
 
buffi said:
Why would it not work?
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Maybe I am conflating this with another thread, but there seemed to be an issue where someone (you?) got it working as a conversion, but the music for stage 1 required further physical changes to the board itself. Apologies if my memory is off.
 
JohnRambo'sKnife said:
Maybe I am conflating this with another thread, but there seemed to be an issue where someone (you?) got it working as a conversion, but the music for stage 1 required further physical changes to the board itself. Apologies if my memory is off.
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If converting a regular Ibara to Kuro through JTAG only without soldering, then the character select music will be wrong.

If soldering kuro sound roms on there, that wont be an issue. Should work fine.
 
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