PASTBLASTER
Grand Master
Amazing Job!
- Thread starter mR_CaESaR
- Start date
mR_CaESaR
Champion
I was given the go ahead from Jermz that it can be shared
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LSKzfoJoczribQiTVzQXocIuWO4UpVDB/view?usp=sharing
That .ai file seems incomplete? I've tried loading it in photoshop, but it just seems to be a partial part of the sticker.
mR_CaESaR
Champion
*may contain some offensive language - viewer discretion advised*
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMS4w84LHnQ
For those that remember this post.. I got a nasty little shock the first time I powered on this cab. I thought it was due to the switch, but I've since received another shock or two when I tried adjusting values through the remote board and I've taken a reading on the earth line and the metal plate only to see this value :o
172V AC!!! No wonder why it bloody hurt!
The same reading, but with the power off at the switch on the front of the cab (PSU is still getting AC from the back with the switch in its on state)
73v is when the cab is powered on without the chassis plugged in
Confirmed that 107v is going into the monitor which explains why I haven't blown up anything
Now it's a process of elimination and try to determine where this leak is.
Fun and games I tell you! (#saidnooneever)
Opening the file in Illustrator shows the whole thing. The canvas is smaller than the graphic that's probably why it appears cutoff in Photoshop.
Stupid Dufus
Grand Master
Can confirm it opens fine in Illustrator.
That's wild!!
mR_CaESaR
Champion
So I've spent some significant time on this - fortunately, I didn't get zapped along the way!
After reading the thread on Aussie Arcade - https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/72785-sega-blast-city-abnormal-voltage-on-signal-ground-and-more/, I decided to take away my internal tx out of the picture just like the OP did. I simply tuned my 220v cab into a 100v cab and used my existing step down tx that my other blast is using - after probing, I had about 50-55V!
I probed the same areas on my other blast city and it too yielded 50-55v on the metal plate. I've been using that cab for almost a year and never felt a shock, so I've never really looked into it that much. Back to the troublesome blast...
Either way, I knew that I had a win already since I went from 172-180V down to 55V! I still didn't have the balls to touch the metal plate yet until I got it a little lower..
Spent a good chunk of the weekend taking readings and special shout out to @tiff_lee for pretty much helping with the troubleshooting
Took the following measurements - probe points are ground pin on the control panel and P1 start pin unless otherwise noted
I rigged up another tx I had and wired it up to the same place as the original tx
Upon first power up, probing the same points as I previously have been, I'm seeing with a pretty low number! YES!!!!
Did some more testing and probed the frame of the monitor which would essentially be the same as the metal plate since it gets mounted on it.. I get an 8v reading!
Looks like I can definitely close this issue off and thank f**k for that! I will try grounding the internal tx to see if it lowers the voltage even more but tiff_lee mentioned that he didn't see a gain on his and his blast hovers in the 8-10v mark too.
The only thing left really for this blast is trying to source an original tube!
But for now, I will stick my tongue on that metal plate shock free!
After reading the thread on Aussie Arcade - https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/72785-sega-blast-city-abnormal-voltage-on-signal-ground-and-more/, I decided to take away my internal tx out of the picture just like the OP did. I simply tuned my 220v cab into a 100v cab and used my existing step down tx that my other blast is using - after probing, I had about 50-55V!
I probed the same areas on my other blast city and it too yielded 50-55v on the metal plate. I've been using that cab for almost a year and never felt a shock, so I've never really looked into it that much. Back to the troublesome blast...
Either way, I knew that I had a win already since I went from 172-180V down to 55V! I still didn't have the balls to touch the metal plate yet until I got it a little lower..
Spent a good chunk of the weekend taking readings and special shout out to @tiff_lee for pretty much helping with the troubleshooting
Took the following measurements - probe points are ground pin on the control panel and P1 start pin unless otherwise noted
- 56 pin (CN10) unplugged in off state (front switch) - dropped to 3v
- 56 pin (CN10) unplugged in on state (front switch) - went to 9v
- CN1 unplugged - no difference
- With CN1 and CN2 unplugged in off state (front switch) - still reading around 3.9v
- With CN1 and CN2 unplugged in on state (front switch) - went to 5.9v
- With CN1 and CN2 plugged in, probed ground and a pin in CN10 - read 60v
- Measured the pins on CN1 connector - every single pin showed 62v
- Measured the resistance of ground and the metal enclosure of the PSU - was at 0 ohms
I rigged up another tx I had and wired it up to the same place as the original tx
Upon first power up, probing the same points as I previously have been, I'm seeing with a pretty low number! YES!!!!
Did some more testing and probed the frame of the monitor which would essentially be the same as the metal plate since it gets mounted on it.. I get an 8v reading!
Looks like I can definitely close this issue off and thank f**k for that! I will try grounding the internal tx to see if it lowers the voltage even more but tiff_lee mentioned that he didn't see a gain on his and his blast hovers in the 8-10v mark too.
The only thing left really for this blast is trying to source an original tube!
But for now, I will stick my tongue on that metal plate shock free!
tiff_lee
Grand Master
Mate I think it's fair to say i'm as glad as you that it's over! I think spent more time with you on your blast then i've spent on my own ><
Where did you buy the side art from? I'm looking at the three online shops that offer them and they all look the same. In your photo it looks like the repro color is more blue than purple? I commented earlier that I want to keep my original ugly stickers but I changed my mind. Mine look really bad.
Cool, thanks. Looks like everyone is printing from the same file so it might not matter which I choose. Hard to tell from photos.
Edit: After closer inspection, @alberto1225 prints the most accurate reproduction stickers. The purple in the other stickers looks more blue and the shadows are grey instead of grey blue. Minor differences. But now that I've seen them....
I sent an inquiry about the stickers to alberto months ago so I'll have to wait and hope he is still printing these.
Edit: After closer inspection, @alberto1225 prints the most accurate reproduction stickers. The purple in the other stickers looks more blue and the shadows are grey instead of grey blue. Minor differences. But now that I've seen them....
I sent an inquiry about the stickers to alberto months ago so I'll have to wait and hope he is still printing these.
Last edited:
Yep, I edited my post before I saw yours. Hard to tell what the correct colors should be by comparing photos online. My stickers are super yellow but the purple areas definitely look purple to me.
VictimOfINK
Beginner
Hey Mate, any chance you can share what you used to print off the red decal stickers template?
mR_CaESaR
Champion
VictimOfINK
Beginner
sorry mate - should have elaborated a bit more. I've actually already got a template, just need to find a good sticker printing service
