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It’s got all the colors. Probably a good tube. Geometry even looks nice.

Your seller is a hero too.

Sorry to scare you, Blast City cabs are fickle creatures. It’s probably my favorite cab, but a good one is hard to come by.
 
AWESOME. So according to "your standards" @DMRSX this would be a "good one". Great very glad to hear it. i'll be giving you guys updates when i get it since it's thanks to everyone helping me out that this deal be made!
 
Weird they said they wouldn't calibrate/adjust the monitor because clearly something has been changed, the difference between those pictures is night and day
 
Weird they said they wouldn't calibrate/adjust the monitor because clearly something has been changed, the difference between those pictures is night and day
They haven't calibrated/adjusted the monitor. They said and i'll try to quote the best i can "the technician has no more patience to adjust it since he doesn't know the specific settings". Which is a bit weird for someone selling a cab, i even asked if they could make the green output the same as the red output and they said they wouldn't because "hey we ran out of patience".

i don't know if it's something hard, but i'm guessing from what i've seen it would be like a volume switch and you would just turn the green one to match the red one but hey, if i knew i wouldn't have created this topic.

i did "demand" a "few" things from them so i won't get any unpleasent surprises so they must've had enough lol
 
I must be missing something here then as just looking at the test patterns in the first set of pics compared to the last set its gone from a washed out red/pink to white
 
Well honestly i don't know what they did but they did say they wouldn't calibrate it (anymore). But the cab is the same (you can tell by those weird "stains" on the top marquee). Maybe they did try to calibrate it in 10 seconds and were like "f this sheet" when they saw it would take a bit more time.
 
This doesn't make a lick of sense. If the monitor were set on 24khz and you threw an MVS in there it'd just not sync.
What do you think the issue is? i honestly do not know. As i've said, that's what i've been told.
 
What do you think the issue is? i honestly do not know. As i've said, that's what i've been told.
Depends on what you're asking about.

The color magically being fine from one day to the next, I'm not sure. Maybe it's a dodgy pot or wire or something and wiggling it tints the whole screen or something? Maybe they did just turn it down a bunch? You won't know for sure until it's in hand and you can play with it yourself.

But the other bit is just flat out not true. You can't just decide you're running games and the monitor at different resolutions. Can't tell you if it's some sort of intentional deception by the seller, or they're really just genuinely clueless and lying about having a "technician". Dunno. It's a strange line to read, because I can't figure out why you'd tell someone that. Maybe it's not the original monitor and they're running an upscaler?
 
i quoted your frequency comment (i don't know but i think it's the monitor frequency and not resolution but then again i'm no expert) so i would ofc be refering to the difference in khz.

The seller doesn't understand a lot about cabs, the seller is part of a team who has technicians that "restore" and repair the cab/monitor (monitor wasn't working due to humidity).

And i'm sorry to ask again, but you didn't tell me why the scanlines are the way they are. Do you have any ideas? i don't that is why i'm asking. i would love to post a video but the forum doesn't allow it.

Attached are the images of the monitor/tube/chassis all that good stuff lol
 

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i quoted your frequency comment (i don't know but i think it's the monitor frequency and not resolution but then again i'm no expert) so i would ofc be refering to the difference in khz.
Same thing, different terminology. 15khz = standard res = 240p. 31k = hi-res = 480p.

Attached are the images of the monitor/tube/chassis all that good stuff lol
That's the frame and the tube, no picture of the chassis. The sticker on the frame doesn't prevent anyone from having swapped out the chassis at any point in the past 20+ years.

And i'm sorry to ask again, but you didn't tell me why the scanlines are the way they are. Do you have any ideas? i don't that is why i'm asking. i would love to post a video but the forum doesn't allow it.
You can always post the vid on youtube or somewhere and link it here. I'm not seeing whatever it is you're talking about regarding the scanlines. But I do know that if they set the monitor to 24khz, that MVS wouldn't show any form of clear picture as it wouldn't sync /at all/.
 
Oh thanks didn't know about it being just a different terminology, thanks a lot!

is this the chassis? Yes i know i know i'm such an expert :dead:

Regarding the "D button" you can see in the videos that they're able to use A, B, C and D buttons :)

Here you go, uploaded the videos.

https://www.veed.io/view/0b2a2b3d-5ebd-45c3-8126-67c67c0ff64d
https://www.veed.io/view/7a1b8e25-f44a-4e10-9e6d-fb577b4490be
https://www.veed.io/view/b65d0fb2-ef95-487e-9fe8-f57de30185dd

Edit: Notice how when the guy is putting up that... thing in front of the monitor, the video goes weird for a moment.
 

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Edit: Notice how when the guy is putting up that... thing in front of the monitor, the video goes weird for a moment.
Yeah, the image would look like that all the time if he had the monitor set to 24khz and plugged in the MVS. It'd never show a stable image.

Something is loose or has a cold solder joint or something. Sync shouldn't drop out when you're putting the bezel on the cab, and you can see it go from white and fine to overly red middle of one of the other videos it looks like. Good news is it's something small, you may just take a bit to narrow down what exactly.
 
The monitor losing sync for a brief moment when the bezel is being fitted is normal. The bezel hits the connectors on the frame. Happened with my cabs too.

EDIT: as for the scanline thing, scanlines in 15khz games are definitely more pronounced on trisync monitors compared the dual sync ones. Maybe that's what he's trying to say?
 
That's great, specially because i can send it to a guy that repairs arcade monitors and recaps chassis if i'm not able to solve it. So i can assume that the monitor, chassis, tube and all that great monitor lingo are ok right? Because that's what was holding me back the most, if the paint job isn't all that great i can repaint it, but having monitor/tube/chassis or other technical issues would f me up since it would be harder to get the issues fixed.
 
repainting a cab is not trivial. the monitor does look ok but it will need to be calibrated when you get it. He could get it in the ballpark with a pcb of his own, but i have a feeling most of these sellers are lazy/inept. They don't know how to do it because they're not really collectors/players. It's like a used car salesman and you ask him to check if you need an oil change or not... it's a simple ass task that takes no effort/skill to really achieve, but they're not going to do extra work or anything "technical" if they can avoid it.
 
@KaPH33n yes exactly that's the impression i got, they could do it but since they're more "business man" than collectors/gamers they don't really want to waste more time with it. Not because it is hard but because they don't want to put in the "effort" to do it. i've seen some videos on how to fix it and it looks quite... trivial if all i have to do is what was done on the videos i saw. Also, they probably didn't even know it was looking too red because they don't know the game they're playing and for them getting video out of the monitor would be enough.
 
Not true. Blast has both the 4th and 5th button wired from the jamma edge to the player 1 & 2 connectors inside the control panel.

D'oh! This is correct.

An adapter may still be needed for controller preferences though. The D button would probably go to LK on 6 button controls, which would be kinda odd.
 
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