- Thread starter buffi
- Start date
Are there any alternatives for that part?
Softdrink
Professional
Just wanted to say that I purchased a BetsuBetsu assembled from @RandomRetro a few weeks ago, and it's been a fantastic addition to my setup. I'm still ironing out some other kinks with my cabinet streaming setup, but this device has dramatically improved the quality of what I can get from my cabinet. Thanks @buffi for designing it and answering some of my questions!
RandomRetro
Professional
Glad it is working out @Softdrink, and agree a special thanks to @buffi for open sourcing the design. I have a couple more boards if anyone is looking for one.
Glad you are liking it and thanks RandomRetro for building them
psychicdrive
Student
thanks for making all these files available! I just made my first JAMMA passthru for a different project and thought about trying to make something like this for myself since I'll be wanting roughly 10 of them so that any of the cabinets I bring to an event can have an output panel on the back.
Hackcell
Grand Master
RandomRetro
Professional
Shoot me a direct message @Hackcell. I may have one, but worst case need some parts for the next batch, but can get something out likely in the next month or two if you can wait.
RandomRetro
Professional
Haha, nah, you are too busy with dumping some crazy ROMs and 1CCing games.
I enjoying building them to be honest, and learning off your design. My 2021 goal is to make a pull request to the project!
I do wish the Betsu formula had the same magic in them to balance the sync from the Taito F3 / other odd arcade boards with an OSSC or Capture card.
I've tried everything to get them to sync properly, including a litttle sync cleaner that converts the 8pin DIN to 15pin.
I've tried everything to get them to sync properly, including a litttle sync cleaner that converts the 8pin DIN to 15pin.
Haha yeah, it definitely doesn't handle that well.
It shakes all over the place for me
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMSzxQjj6ZE
It shakes all over the place for me
So I learned a fun hack that kinda works.
If you are not getting a stable signal from the OSSC from an F3/Betsu setup, switch to the active (AV2 or AV3) known-good input, and back to the F3.
You MUST have something connected and running on the OSSC to lock onto in AV2 or AV3.
Eventually the OSSC will lock onto the F3, and be stable AF. (BUT only when you are streaming out of the betsu as SCART to AV1 on the OSSC)
Sometimes you need to flip back and forth a couple of times until it works.
It's stupid, but that's what I saw on some development notes here about it
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=F3.
In my dual cabinet setup, my Blast city has a splitfire (VGA), and my NAC has a Betsu (scart) going into my OSSC.
The OSSC is default settings outputting to a Datapath E1S capture card via HDMI.
I lose signal out of the OSSC to my capture card. (YES I've also lost image from the OSSC with a monitor directly connected to it)
The OSSC can't handle some of the output from the betsu as good as the Splitfire does.
Meanwhile the splitfire in my Blast sends a buttery locked signal to the OSSC to digest, no matter the PCB.
Usually I see this happen with boards that have low video output, flashy graphics, or weird sync.
The below boards and conditions have been noted.
-Taito F3 - almost all games
-Irem M72/92
-Some STV games (like Diehard that switch resolutions quickly)
-SETA SSV (I get flicker/jumping, or no signal at all
-Seibu Kaihatsu games (when you bomb the screen with massive flicker - Raiden fighters series)
-CPS2 (also when you bomb the screen with flicker. Diamahoo does this)
-CAVE EsPaRaDe (Magician boss when he moves with echo flicker pattern around screen)
I know I have a list of more, but that's off the top of my head with concern to streaming my PCBs on a rotating and regular basis.
@evilsim makes these sweet 8pin DIN to VGA sync cleaners.
They're convenient if you want to run all your cabs with a VGA splitter into your OSSC vs SCART + VGA
They didn't solve my problems, but they are nice to have around.
In a perfect world, I get a scaler per cabinet, set individual profiles for board sets, and run a HDMI switch into my capture card.
For now the above solution of both cabinets (NAC w/ SCART, and Blast w/ VGA going in the OSSC) is the best I can do despite screwing with timings, and other OSSC tweaks.
for now... this stupid shit-scaler is the only thing that seems to take whatever signal I throw at it, and it handles it. (not great, but it does the job enough)
My solution is really solved by either finding another Splitfire, or a compatible scaler with the above solutions.
If ANYONE would be willing to sell me a spare Splitfire they have collecting dust on a shelf, please contact me ASAP.
I will love you long time.
It's a @Frank_fjs design if anyone wants to build one:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...open-source-supergun.9408/page-40#post-176279
Personally I use a Backporch:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...tool-for-classic-consoles-connectivity.16694/
Likely no real difference between the two.
Awesome project, and thank you for open sourcing it!
I'm making my own version with the inputs extracted via db15. I don't need the rgb pots, I was wondering, do I still need an inline resistor in its place? What value would it be if so?
Thanks!
I'm making my own version with the inputs extracted via db15. I don't need the rgb pots, I was wondering, do I still need an inline resistor in its place? What value would it be if so?
Thanks!
Sorry, what exactly do you want to do?
I just want to not use the rgb adjustment pots, here's the schematic now below. I was wondering, it probably still needs resistors in their place?
Yeah you will need to reduce the voltage, otherwise the output will not work (it will hit the upper limit and just show white video or something probably(?)).
Sure you can put two resistors as a divider instead of a potentiometer if you want. Voltage levels may differ between games though, so dunno if it's a great idea. No idea which values would be good for that really, play around. If you only care about capturing a few different systems with similar video levels, it might be fine.
Sure you can put two resistors as a divider instead of a potentiometer if you want. Voltage levels may differ between games though, so dunno if it's a great idea. No idea which values would be good for that really, play around. If you only care about capturing a few different systems with similar video levels, it might be fine.
