thanks guys
- Thread starter 98pacecar
- Start date
No, sadly the forum software doesnt have search within thread, nor a plugin to add it. But in fairness, there are not many threads within this PGM section so shouldn't get too much extra noise searching within forum.
How realistic is it to make a 3d printer plan for the cart? or should I just get one of these 32$ games and get the cart from it?While I'm waiting for the PCBs to arrive, this are my current thoughts about a replacement cartridge, inspired by https://lions3.com/product/mvs-custom-game-shell/ :
(This doesn't include all the notches to fit sides together or holes for screws.)
Basically laser-cut acrylic for all the straight sides, with 3D printed brackets to fit the bevelled sides. I'm not sure how cost effective the 3D printing is, maybe it'll be better to make a mould and then cast sides from resin.
Though at the moment I have neither access to a 3D printer or a laser cutter...
Or does anyone have another idea how to get cartridge shells? Can you replicate original cartridge shells with resin casting?
I got one quote for a SLS nylon printed version for ~150 GBP for the whole thing. The two side rails were ~10 GBP, though it should be possible to cast them from resin once you've got a master.
A 3D printed case with a desktop printer should be cheaper, but still a big investment in time and material.
I contacted lions3 if he can make a PGM version of his MVS case, but it looks like he is still busy with his move.
I may have access to a laser cutter some time next week if everything goes well, it may be possible to get a very simple case from just the top and bottom plate and some spacers.
if you're going to cast it why not just use an original case as your master?
This is an area where I have no experience... so far nobody could confirm if you could make a mould that doesn't distort the large flat areas, and if the resin cast is strong enough. The side rails are shorter and can be thicker, so the mould and the cast could be more stable.
I don't have much experience with casting either, but I've also seen people make resin casts of body panels on cars with no noticeable distortion. I see a lot of casts of console housings in the mod community these days too. I wouldn't think that a PGM case would be much of a challenge by comparison.
Interesting! I found a article about that, which referred to this youtube series:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJD4ZeVzn3s
...I may have to try this.
(I thought body panels use mostly fibre glass or carbon fibre?)
They use both depending on the application.
Most OEM bumpers and trim pieces are actually cast Polyeurothane simply because it can get hit and bend and flex without cracking, so a lot of aftermarket/replica parts are using that process now for the same reason.
For the aftermarket fiberglas and FRP was popular in the 70s-90s simply because it was cheap and easy but most people go with casting these days unless they explicitly want a carbon fiber look.
The stock pgm cart cases are not all that great themselves, the pcbs move back and forth due to the spacing on the screw posts. I would totally be in for a better case or I'll probably just wrap the posts in tape or something to secure them better but I'm just cheer-leading for you guys. =)
I have a lot of experience casting all kinds of objects. Without a doubt you can cast a PGM shell and get an exact 1:1 replica that is equally strong or if not, stronger. There is a trial and error learning curve with casting. Not all silicone rubbers or resins are made the same. I use Smooth On brand products, they have a full range of materials. The real challenge is learning how to design molds that will completely fill with resin and not have voids. Small parts are easy. Large complex parts like a PGM shell are difficult. I see the shell vent slots as being problematic. I also dont think you would see good results without a vacuum chamber (to degas and remove bubbles), then casting/curing in a pressure chamber (forces resin into all parts of mold, compresses any remaining bubbles so small they cannot be seen).
Well, it's a thing I wanted to try since watching some of the Adam Savage videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEVi0mEaJJQ ). I've got a stack of empty shells, so I can use one or two to make patterns for a mould. The internal structure could be a challenge, maybe I'll have to cut some extra channels or use putty to block some cavities.. It'll be interesting to find out.
I'll make sure to take pictures.
I'll make sure to take pictures.
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I got a couple of friends with printers (why don't I?
) so if plans are available, please point 'em my way.You will definitely need clay (make sure it is sulfur free, otherwise the silicone will not cure) for parting each shell side. I highly recommend the videos on the Smooth On youtube channel, and Brick in the Yard on youtube as well. I just briefly checked out the video you linked; bonus points they are also using Smooth On as well! Parts that can be sanded or painted after are far more forgiving than parts that come out of the mold as finished. It will blow your mind how the tiniest little scratch in the plastic will transfer into the mold and appear on the casting. Not that that is a problem, it is just incredible the amount of detail that can be captured with casting.
Just a bit of progress report:
I was a bit busy with other stuff, but managed to make my first mould and cast for the small spacer bit:
And promptly broke off one of the sides when trying to cut off the filling spout... I guess I'll have to experiment with different casting resins.
I'll try to get one of the shell halves done next.
I was a bit busy with other stuff, but managed to make my first mould and cast for the small spacer bit:
And promptly broke off one of the sides when trying to cut off the filling spout... I guess I'll have to experiment with different casting resins.
I'll try to get one of the shell halves done next.
https://www.smooth-on.com/products/task-9/
Only downside is the short pot life, have to work fast. Excellent resin for what you trying to do, assuming transparency is a must
