What's new

Better molded than printed - what sort of plastic parts are we missing in this hobby?

You can use basically any sla printer to make molds. I have done prototype molds with a prusa sl1, for example. No need to spend a fortune :)
 
Jaleco Pony Mk3-25 monitor bezel and Table Pony VH/H monitor bezels. I'd pay a grip for a 1:1 of those stupid things.
Will absolutely keep it in mind soon as I get some sort of setup in here! How big are they? Something like 27x27?

I'm going to see about that chipped SC-25 bezel I'd asked you about fixing while I'm at it. I know it's good for roughly 2 people, but if I have the tools to fix my own cab, why not use them?

You can use basically any sla printer to make molds. I have done prototype molds with a prusa sl1, for example. No need to spend a fortune :)
I was thinking for the size of them, it'd be hard to do a lot of vacuum forming molds with an SLA 3D printer. You could probably dot them with a lot of measurements, and print in pieces I suppose...

In more fun news, I found a real commercial vacuum forming bed. Smaller than the one I've got plans for, but also dirt cheap get-this-out-of-my-warehouse pricing, so maybe it'll be worth getting and using for a bit here! Supposed to get more details on Friday when the seller gets back to work and hopefully see it start of next week.
 
Last edited:
I saw someone else mention it, but the New Net City N0A-1502-03 bezel would be awesome as they seem to be in short supply
 
I saw someone else mention it, but the New Net City N0A-1502-03 bezel would be awesome as they seem to be in short supply
What are the dimensions?
 
I didn't see it mentioned but just in case it hasn't and it's possible, AES stick ball tops. Yes there is a close option but it's not the exact same size as original and it would be nice to have 1:1

Also gears for CD-ROM drives - these are already starting to become a bigger issue for stuff like Namco 2x6 where there is no alternative/ODE

Others have also mentioned CPS1.5/CPS2 shells. What about a generic shell big enough to fit other PCBs? Not sure how possible it would be, but if you were to make something large enough to fit anything up to a Midway Wolf Unit it would fit a huge number of PCBs and people could glue/somehow attach standoffs inside the shell to suit the board being installed? Maybe a couple of different sizes depending on how feasible it is?

Injection/vaccuum moulded shell for Mean Well power supplies (the 3D printed options some people make are good, but a vacuum/injection moulded one would be even better)

The LS30 tops have been mentioned, but what about reproductions of other rare/unusual controls like the cat paws for UO Poko?
 
The LS30 tops have been mentioned, but what about reproductions of other rare/unusual controls like the cat paws for UO Poko?
That would be silly since someone has already injection molded them! :D

https://misteraddons.com/products/joystick-cat-paw

1735870340945.png
 
I don’t have the game unfortunately but I have seen threads previously talking about reproducing them

It does look like a fun game though
Infuriatingly difficult as it gets rolling! And yeah, everyone else beat me to saying they're already out there!

Injection/vaccuum moulded shell for Mean Well power supplies (the 3D printed options some people make are good, but a vacuum/injection moulded one would be even better)
I think someone would have to show me what they think is a good idea for this. I'm not quite piecing together in my head a good solution. Same with PCB cases of generic sizes. I lack creativity, lol.

Also gears for CD-ROM drives
These are WAY doable. Would just need 1 non-worn one in hand and it's fairly trivial to reproduce gears. They're just math as far as teeth are concerned, and a few small measurements.

AES stick ball tops
I see one bozo on ebay (if you're reading this, yes, you're a bozo) selling Seimitsu 30mm black balltops as a replacement and charging silly amounts. I've yet to do injection molds with inserts. I know it's possible, and I understand the concepts involved, but there are two big downsides: I'd need to physically set every shot of the mold with the threaded insert so it'd be quite time intensive, and I'd also need to get a good bit of learning/practice in. Which is completely fine since most of this will take a lot of practice and adjustments!
 
I see one bozo on ebay (if you're reading this, yes, you're a bozo) selling Seimitsu 30mm black balltops as a replacement and charging silly amounts. I've yet to do injection molds with inserts. I know it's possible, and I understand the concepts involved, but there are two big downsides: I'd need to physically set every shot of the mold with the threaded insert so it'd be quite time intensive, and I'd also need to get a good bit of learning/practice in. Which is completely fine since most of this will take a lot of practice and adjustments!
Not only the setting n threading everyone, but finishing a round ball with whatever finish may be tricky too. Bat tops may be a lil easier and seem to feel more plastick-ey. Ball tops feel more bowling ball-ey (polished).
 
I think someone would have to show me what they think is a good idea for this. I'm not quite piecing together in my head a good solution. Same with PCB cases of generic sizes. I lack creativity, lol.

In my mind I’m picturing something like a CPS2 shell on a smaller scale. A case that holds the Mean Well, with the power connections sitting at the end, but recessed in a bit and with some vent slots on top

Either that or fully enclosed, but with one end open for the wires to enter/exit and again vent slots on top

Just trying to think of ways to reduce the risk of the exposed power connections

For a PCB housing, a PC case on a smaller scale. Doesn’t need to be fancy, but if possible you could have a recess you could put a Perspex/glass panel into so the PCB is viewable
 
There may be an interest in a smaller bat top to suit AES sticks? A lot of people prefer them especially for fighters
Well those people..... are fine enough I guess, but they're wrong.

Just trying to think of ways to reduce the risk of the exposed power connections
I've always found putting the PSU in the cab works well!

But yes, all those pesky supergun users (of which I've become one recently on and off) may want something, huh?
 
Well those people..... are fine enough I guess, but they're wrong.

No argument from me but bat tops seemed to be a lot more common in the US?

I've always found putting the PSU in the cab works

But yes, all those pesky supergun users (of which I've become one recently on and off) may want something, huh?

Sorry I should have been more specific. Yes I was thinking for those people who use these on Superguns or on a test bench where the power connections are exposed
 
No argument from me but bat tops seemed to be a lot more common in the US?
Oh, they absolutely are.

Sorry I should have been more specific. Yes I was thinking for those people who use these on Superguns or on a test bench where the power connections are exposed
I was just being cheeky, I knew what you were on about! :)
 
Will absolutely keep it in mind soon as I get some sort of setup in here! How big are they? Something like 27x27?

I'm going to see about that chipped SC-25 bezel I'd asked you about fixing while I'm at it. I know it's good for roughly 2 people, but if I have the tools to fix my own cab, why not use them?


I was thinking for the size of them, it'd be hard to do a lot of vacuum forming molds with an SLA 3D printer. You could probably dot them with a lot of measurements, and print in pieces I suppose...

In more fun news, I found a real commercial vacuum forming bed. Smaller than the one I've got plans for, but also dirt cheap get-this-out-of-my-warehouse pricing, so maybe it'll be worth getting and using for a bit here! Supposed to get more details on Friday when the seller gets back to work and hopefully see it start of next week.

Size is definitely the killer. I think elegoo makes some nice large-format resin printers, but formlabs will still be the winner in that area.

Take a look at the peopoly phenom. I have one and can attest to its reliability.
 
Size is definitely the killer. I think elegoo makes some nice large-format resin printers, but formlabs will still be the winner in that area.
Oh for sure. But you're talking 5-10x the cost.

I hear both the Neptune and Jupiter are terrible printers, but I've had a Mars 2, 3, and now Saturn 4 Ultra and absolutely cannot find a fault in them for what they are. I have a kit for a Voron coming in as my first foray into FDM.

I'll look up the peopoly phenom!
 
Back
Top