There are some really great games out there that either require or play best with a spinner, but I avoided them for a long time. I thought about building a spinner panel, but changing panels to play a small handful of games is pretty annoying, and considering my horizontal JAMMA setup right now is a supergun it would be double annoying playing outside of a cab. Regardless, I kept my eye out for spinners and when a set of Seimitsu LS-29s appeared on YAJ with a Capcom spinner I/O, I grabbed it:
Auction Photo
I cleaned them up and verified they worked with my Arkanoid PCB and Arcaniac JAMMA adapter, then I started looking around for some way to make using them pleasant. I spotted my old Saturn Virtua Stick and became enlightened, as the complete plans for what I was about to do emerged in my brain fully formed.
The thing already had some holes in it from a LS-56 install, and I hadn't used it in years because who wants to play arcade ports on the Saturn in 202X.
Originally I planned to be as lazy as possible and leave in the original buttons, but I ended up taking them out and boring out the holes to the correct 30mm size so I could have non-crap buttons and caps over the unused stuff. I'm not even sure any spinner games use all 3 buttons but it's the JAMMA standard so why not. Yellow button is staRt. Electrical tape is for covering holes, so it will look fully sick under the blue and purple mood lighting I don't have. I experimented with putting the buttons on the bottom row, as this stick had a weird design and that row is the one that lines up neatly with the lever, but went with the top row because it felt better when using it in my lap.
Wired everything up to a 10 pin AMP-UP male pin connector (same as used on Astro City kick harness wiring). I planned to use the panel mount feature of the connector as designed, but the case was too thick and it wouldn't lock in place securely enough to provide decent strain relief, so I improvised by spreading out the panel locking "wings" and drilling 2mm holes in them, then using M2 screws and nuts to bolt it to the case. Now it's "good enough"
I came up with a standardized pinout (numbers follow TE's designation for this connector type):
1. Button 1 - Blue
2. Button 2 - Green
3. Button 3 - Orange
4. Start - Grey
5. Button GND - Black
6. Spinner 5V - Red
7. Spinner Left - Yellow
8. Spinner Right - Violet
9. N/C (really should have put coin here, and probably will)
10. Spinner GND - Black
Armed with this I can slap a 10 pin AMP UP connector on anything spinner compatible and play it with the controller. For reference, here is the pinout of the Molex KK 396 (yes I know it's actually Molex SPOX but nobody uses that weirdness and KK 396 works fine) header on the Taito and Seimitsu spinners:
1. Right
2. 5V
3. GND
4. Left
Now I can add a connector to the Arkanoid to JAMMA adapter:
I used a JST XH connector to tap the buttons and grounds for them from the vias on the adapter (thanks for including these Arcaniac). The wires are connected to the rear of the connector with Mini-PV contacts and then soldered. This sort of nonstandard use is the only time I think anyone should solder crimp contacts. The connector is held to the board with 3M's most brutally sticky variant of VHB tape, forged by Satan himself. I don't know the part number, I borrowed it from work. I also added some crappy knockoff Molex KK 254 headers for the spinner section because I ordered the version of this adapter with the screw terminals, thinking I would add JST NH headers myself. Surprise! NH and XH connectors are too wide for both players to fit and the only thing I had that worked are the Cholexes.
Pinout for the spinner headers:
1. 5V
2. GND
3. Right
4. Left
5. N/C
Now I can build a detachable harness for this adapter:
And a cable to connect to the controller:
So now I can play Arkanoid sideways on my horizontal setup, but that's dumb. I need to be able to swap it to the cab with minimum effort. I will use the Astro City's fully populated kick harness connector, and run the cable out the control panel lock hole with a zip tie through the smaller hole for strain relief:
The hole is too small to fit the connector through, so I had to feed the crimped contacts in and then attach them on the other side:
Now we need another cable to go to the adapter:
*click*
変身!
Thanks for coming to my powerpoint. I'll probably update this when I add support for the Capcom I/O.
Auction Photo
I cleaned them up and verified they worked with my Arkanoid PCB and Arcaniac JAMMA adapter, then I started looking around for some way to make using them pleasant. I spotted my old Saturn Virtua Stick and became enlightened, as the complete plans for what I was about to do emerged in my brain fully formed.
The thing already had some holes in it from a LS-56 install, and I hadn't used it in years because who wants to play arcade ports on the Saturn in 202X.
Originally I planned to be as lazy as possible and leave in the original buttons, but I ended up taking them out and boring out the holes to the correct 30mm size so I could have non-crap buttons and caps over the unused stuff. I'm not even sure any spinner games use all 3 buttons but it's the JAMMA standard so why not. Yellow button is staRt. Electrical tape is for covering holes, so it will look fully sick under the blue and purple mood lighting I don't have. I experimented with putting the buttons on the bottom row, as this stick had a weird design and that row is the one that lines up neatly with the lever, but went with the top row because it felt better when using it in my lap.
Wired everything up to a 10 pin AMP-UP male pin connector (same as used on Astro City kick harness wiring). I planned to use the panel mount feature of the connector as designed, but the case was too thick and it wouldn't lock in place securely enough to provide decent strain relief, so I improvised by spreading out the panel locking "wings" and drilling 2mm holes in them, then using M2 screws and nuts to bolt it to the case. Now it's "good enough"
I came up with a standardized pinout (numbers follow TE's designation for this connector type):
1. Button 1 - Blue
2. Button 2 - Green
3. Button 3 - Orange
4. Start - Grey
5. Button GND - Black
6. Spinner 5V - Red
7. Spinner Left - Yellow
8. Spinner Right - Violet
9. N/C (really should have put coin here, and probably will)
10. Spinner GND - Black
Armed with this I can slap a 10 pin AMP UP connector on anything spinner compatible and play it with the controller. For reference, here is the pinout of the Molex KK 396 (yes I know it's actually Molex SPOX but nobody uses that weirdness and KK 396 works fine) header on the Taito and Seimitsu spinners:
1. Right
2. 5V
3. GND
4. Left
Now I can add a connector to the Arkanoid to JAMMA adapter:
I used a JST XH connector to tap the buttons and grounds for them from the vias on the adapter (thanks for including these Arcaniac). The wires are connected to the rear of the connector with Mini-PV contacts and then soldered. This sort of nonstandard use is the only time I think anyone should solder crimp contacts. The connector is held to the board with 3M's most brutally sticky variant of VHB tape, forged by Satan himself. I don't know the part number, I borrowed it from work. I also added some crappy knockoff Molex KK 254 headers for the spinner section because I ordered the version of this adapter with the screw terminals, thinking I would add JST NH headers myself. Surprise! NH and XH connectors are too wide for both players to fit and the only thing I had that worked are the Cholexes.
Pinout for the spinner headers:
1. 5V
2. GND
3. Right
4. Left
5. N/C
Now I can build a detachable harness for this adapter:
And a cable to connect to the controller:
So now I can play Arkanoid sideways on my horizontal setup, but that's dumb. I need to be able to swap it to the cab with minimum effort. I will use the Astro City's fully populated kick harness connector, and run the cable out the control panel lock hole with a zip tie through the smaller hole for strain relief:
The hole is too small to fit the connector through, so I had to feed the crimped contacts in and then attach them on the other side:
Now we need another cable to go to the adapter:
*click*
変身!
Thanks for coming to my powerpoint. I'll probably update this when I add support for the Capcom I/O.
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