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Parting with a flawlessly working CPS2 Euro copy (10/24/96 version) of X-Men Vs Street Fighter. Case is in very good shape for its age. B board is running original encrypted code on a clean Revision 7 which is also a nice plus. I also changed the battery recently with a super long...

Did you ever end up using those CPS2 OSSC settings I shared? Curious if they worked out well for you.

Additional CPS2 OSSC pixel pr0n with the settings in my prior post (& a damn fun game):

Here are my OSSC CPS2 settings I’ve literally spent months tweaking. You be the judge with how sweet this looks even with my crappy iPhone 13 camera: Here are my settings: Video LPF - 9 MHz YPbPr in ColSpa: Rec. 601 R/Pr offset: 128 G/Y offset: 128 B/Pb offset: 128 R/Pr gain: 20 G/Y...

By all the data, do you mean everything in the sync/sampling/output/etc menus changed from standard profile? FYI, the CPS2 profile I’ll share is currently running with Line5X so your modern TV will need to be capable of displaying that.

Which ones you want to try first? There are quite a few options I modded for each. Let me know which specific values you need & for which platform & I’ll try to dig them up tonight with display photos.

100% OSSC user here with custom profiles for my current setups (NeoGeo, CPS1, CPS2 & CPS3). I’ve spent months tweaking these settings to get what I think are pretty damn close to pixel-perfect settings, inclusive of proper aspect ratio/horizontal & vertical lines. Happy to share my values with...

My guess is that it’s at 2D given the error begins with a “2”. Try replacing that one first & see if it fixes things.

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On hold pending payment.

Bump (again; shipping included). 1:1 SIMM conversion of a magnificent Cave CPS2 shooter here, peeps! :thumbup:

Set it to the 20V selection (3 turns to the left from the multimeter’s current dial position). Battery should typically read 3.67v. I’ve seen some carts have a 3V battery (something like 3.1v when measured).

I’m parting with a converted CPS2 Progear No Arashi Japanese region B board. Board utilizes an authentic CPS2 daughter board and authentic CPS3 SIMMS (2 x 64 MB; 2 x 32 MB) properly flashed. B board used is a revision 7 with a programmed G PAL - this particular B board has no repairs...

Wow. Solder bridge on U70 - the fourth, third and second from the bottom-most right pins beeped connected. Three seconds with a desoldering braid/iron to clean it up & I now have crystal clean QSound! (Pins on U70 before clean-up) Many thanks @Darksoft & @l_oliveira for continuing to...

Ah. My previous question re: audio was meant to be limited to the multi itself. Obviously the A board does what it needs to re: audio but if the sound-applicable registers on the multi aren’t working properly it’s probably (likely?) the cause of my no audio issue.

My A board works perfectly with all my other boards & the wire fix is in place on the first gen multi & am still getting no sound. I’m going to check the registers on the first gen multi to see if one or more might’ve bit the dust. Audio was working prior to the wire fix.

Nice; I’ll get to work on checking out these shifters. Thank you DS

Do you happen to know where on the first gen CPS2 multi the audio section is generated for me to check? This kit works flawless except for audio - there is none generated either over JAMMA or QSound after the older “crackle” wire fix was done.

New world record here on a Vampire Savior U.S.: Thirty. One. Years. 31 friggin’ years to the month!!!! Board was still very much alive before swapping with a heavy duty Tadiran axial. Those sweet OG Capcom electrons from the factory continue to remain as-is.