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I'll let you know.

I might still have the info on my nas box or some back-up drives somewhere, I'll try to dig up info on it. You do have to burn the bootloader, and then the firmware. Never paid too much attention to this as these are basically dead, no development, no support, etc...

You can still buy the MCU and burn the firmware to it, if you need the chip that is. And get Arthrimus' PCB for it. If you want the old PCB for it, I don't think anyone is still making those.

Down to my last assembled kit with red voltmeter. If there is any further interest I will put together another batch Thanks to all that have gotten these, really appreciate it

OMG, you imagine if Wata started rating Cave kits :D

Need to make sure to add insurance, tacking and adult signature. Dont skimp on the speed also. :D But seriously, I got one of those heat presses and have been making some custom bags for some boards when I can't find the correct size ready-made to purcahse.

Nice, glad to see this all set up there. These will be available in about 1-2 weeks, I have a test PCB on the way to check fitment, etc. Once that's confirmed I will place an order to cover all those who want these. I haven't asked @Mitsurugi-w yet, but I would like for him to sell these...

Happy you got it sorted out :thumbup:

Thank you buddy! Hope you like it and it works out great in your setup.

J would be series number, the 502N should mean 5K nominal most likely 20% tolerance. You can measure a pot like this: Pins 1 - 3 should be total resistance 1 - 2 & 2 -3 measurements between these pins should add up to total

Got it, thank you! I will probably be doing some tests today or tomorrow if I get some extra time. I want to try and wrap this up in the next few days and finalize this.

Ok this is basically done, layout Im going with. I was playing with the logos, not sure if I like them. How things are labeled, does it make sense to you all, let me know if I need to relabel anything please, thanks. Also, I made sure the switches were at least available at mouser. I think...

Long night || Was looking at the STV manual pinout lol Still bizarre that they did this: So the only thing to decide is: From A-B-C-D to D-B-C-A or B-C-D-A Simplest would be to slide the D to the A But I think it should be to move buttons over 1 spot so B-C-D-A

Quick question for you guys, will you all be using Everten's Line out/Kick harness addon? Also, I need to remap P1 & P2 buttons 4 from the kick harness. Do you guys want time to swap just button 4 to button 1 or remap all the buttons? meaning From 1-2-3-4 to 4-2-3-1 or 2-3-4-1

No rush, when you can. Get some sleep bro. Im going to test out my calculations this weekend hopefully and if all goes well, redo the PCB for the A board and change a few things on the switch board and that should be it, I will be super happy when its finished and all works as it should.

As promised, I am 99.99% sure I worked out the line-level audio issue with the A board. No trace cutting, unless you want to :D The OG volume pot stays in place as is and you will have sound through the jamma harness and the rca jacks. When you can, if you can verify those few questions...

He truly is, I hope he is doing well.

Yes, you can do it this way, nothing wrong with this. Definitely a cheap, quick solution. As for me, I wanted an internal solution with quality components, that looked clean without adding extra external devices/converters/connections,etc.. I already have enough stuff in the cabs. :D This is...

Definitely for another thread, if I have time I'll try to pick up that project again. Thank you! I appreciate your time and effort. :thumbup: Agree, for now I will forge ahead with adapting the mod to do the trace cut.

Ok, slight update, but Im getting close to ordering what should be the final version of this. I hate feature creep :D Still have to tweak the layout a bit, double-check spacing, and probably rename a couple of things but here we go: We have 12v fan headers power and speaker-level audio...