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Github can feel daunting at first, but just register, create an issue with this same description and link to video and that’s it. Jotego is very responsive and will ask for any extra details he might need.

Best way to report this is via a Github issue https://github.com/jotego/jtcores

Anything crt-related is super expensive these days 😓 but surely it’s one of the most beautiful monitors I’ve ever seen! Wish I had one. Enjoy!!

The bars are also needed when installing in tate. I have my AWSD in tate (but with an MS9 instead) and it’s my favorite cab for tate 😍😍 BTW: wow, a NOS Tosh PF 😍

Looking for a loose red plastic shell, or a broken cart (but with its shell intact) Looking to buy in the EU to avoid customs.

I installed the remote dip switches this week, and tried turning all them on, then off, to check that they were soldered correctly, and I used (I think) Final Fight (with the test menu dip switch on) test menu to check they were at the expected position. Other than one of them not being properly...

Is it normal that the CPS1 multi takes a while to erase a game when programming another? (First stage of the process when selecting a new game) I haven’t used the CPS2 multi in a couple months, but from what I remember it pretty much starts programming the new game immediately or almost.

+1 to this. I’d definitely be up for one, but I (very luckily and for a good price) managed to get a second hand one recently.

Thanks for the info! I was aware there were 2 versions but didn’t know the differences. My serial is 004xxx so if I want to keep it original I should go for P1. What is BBH?

I purchased an Astro City PSU from him. Communication was quick and clear, he packed the item very carefully and shipped in record time! I had it in my hands in less than a week despite being an international (Germany->Spain) shipment. Based on my own experience, a seller I can recommend :)

Today I spent a while looking for broken traces on P1 and SP2, but couldn’t find anything with the multimeter (my skills aren’t the best though 😅) Before I try the reflow option for those 2 roms (or is P1 enough?), is there anything else worth checking? like maybe checking continuity between...

PM sent 😬

So I guess I should start by checking all traces, otherwise replace ROM?

Any suggestions? What does “ROM Region” mean? BTW I discovered the issue with the short board (black screen instead of reboot was caused because I enabled dip switch 8, which is “pause” by accident) now both of them self reboot.

I just installed the Unibios, ran the CRC and this is what I got. That “NG” doesn’t sound good?

Definitely want one of this 😄

Thanks all! I haven’t installed the Unibios yet, so it can’t be that. Hopefully I can do today, otherwise after my holidays. I’ll keep the post updated as I try stuff.

But there are no caps in the cart, right? The 2 boards I have work well with all the other games I have

So I have this Shock Troopers 1 cart I've owned for many years which worked well back in the day, but doesn't now :( I have 2 MVS boards, and the issue is different on each: - Long board (I think it's a MV1F): boot up (classic green screen with artifacts) -> Neo Geo logo with music -> reboots...

After a long time to find the components and the time, I finally did it. In case its useful for anyone else in the future, this is the pinout for this Sega Rally 2 Start/View button panel: 1-5v 2-start light 3-unused 4-view change light 5-unused 6-unused 7-start button 8-unused 9-view change...